Tree form training. To pinch or not the first season. My opinion

Fishinjunky

Well-known member
After trying both methods i found that both methods have pros and cons.


Method 1. Single leader all first season without pinching.
Pros
This method produces a slightly thicker trunk the first season.
Cons
This method is hard to train the scaffold branches without breaking them because they are growing from 1 year old fully lignified wood. Resulting in narrower spread from the trunk. The scaffolds also need staked so the wind doesn't break them off.


Method 2. Pinching and allowing scaffold branches to grow the first season
Pros
Much easier to train the scaffold branches because they are growing from younger less lignified wood making them more pliable and easier to get more spread from the trunk.
Cons
Doesn't produce as thick of a trunk the first season.


Conclusion
Method 1. Ifyou want a slightly bigger trunk the first season an you're comfortable with less spread an the risk of breaking the scaffold branches then go with Method 1.

Method 2. If you're ok with a slightly less thick of a trunk the first season and you want more control of training an more spread with less risk of breaking the scaffold branches then go with method 2


Method 1. This tree was grown as single leader all first season. Topped second season to grow scaffold branches. This tree is 2½ years old
Screenshot_20250330_092812_Gallery.jpg



Method 2.
This tree was pinched the first season to grow scaffold branches. This tree is 1½ years old.
Screenshot_20250330_094558_Gallery.jpg
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Nice looking trees.

I’ve never grown as a single whip. I’ve pinched a few once they got to the height I wanted, but most of the time I just let them grow and branch out the first season and prune off unwanted growth the following Spring (or years later if procrastinating).
 
I'd definitely be happy with those.
I prefer the single trunk look, though I have a couple that have multiples.
I leave those for air layers. :)
 
My personal preference is go grow single whip the first year and the second year to develop the scaffolding branches. Overall it would take me 3 years to get the tree shape and form that I want.
 
Hi.

It depends on the fig type. Some, I have growing with a single leader, trunk. Others I grow like bushes.

First, I noticed my dogs eat the leaves. So, I grew bushes for my dogs to reach. Second, my taller dogs stole figs. So, I grew the ones I love the most tall enough that dogs cannot reach them when jumping.

After I began growing them like bushes, and most of those don't get figs hardly ever, though they are tasty, I started growing them in my front yard for borders in the mix with my hedge row on the street biways.

One escaped into my runner bamboo. I figured if the fig bush uses the nitrogen, stealing from the bamboo, maybe I can live with less trimming of my giant bamboo.

I have also been planning to plant a fig bush in the inner circle of my Mimosa tree that I keep as a bush. It always tries to go back to a tree. I have been creating an internal ring but trimming out the center leaders for years with plans to get a fig bush started in the center to use the nitrogen.

Besides fig food, I try to figure out ways to use figs plants to control nitrogen. It's just my concepts by trying to control other plants that grow out of control naturally. Also use my figs for shading other plants since I am in a Mediterranean dry climate.

Just my two cents.
 
Both great looking trees. I tend to top it first season to get the branching going as soon as possible. I more often try to prune to a open vase or even modified open vase, allowing the scaffolds to get more sturdy. My trees take a beating when I move them. for asthetics.... I'd pick your option 1. I really like that shape. Good work
 
Nice looking trees.

I’ve never grown as a single whip. I’ve pinched a few once they got to the height I wanted, but most of the time I just let them grow and branch out the first season and prune off unwanted growth the following Spring (or years later if procrastinating).
thank you
 
Hi.

It depends on the fig type. Some, I have growing with a single leader, trunk. Others I grow like bushes.

First, I noticed my dogs eat the leaves. So, I grew bushes for my dogs to reach. Second, my taller dogs stole figs. So, I grew the ones I love the most tall enough that dogs cannot reach them when jumping.

After I began growing them like bushes, and most of those don't get figs hardly ever, though they are tasty, I started growing them in my front yard for borders in the mix with my hedge row on the street biways.

One escaped into my runner bamboo. I figured if the fig bush uses the nitrogen, stealing from the bamboo, maybe I can live with less trimming of my giant bamboo.

I have also been planning to plant a fig bush in the inner circle of my Mimosa tree that I keep as a bush. It always tries to go back to a tree. I have been creating an internal ring but trimming out the center leaders for years with plans to get a fig bush started in the center to use the nitrogen.

Besides fig food, I try to figure out ways to use figs plants to control nitrogen. It's just my concepts by trying to control other plants that grow out of control naturally. Also use my figs for shading other plants since I am in a Mediterranean dry climate.

Just my two cents.
great idea
 
Both great looking trees. I tend to top it first season to get the branching going as soon as possible. I more often try to prune to a open vase or even modified open vase, allowing the scaffolds to get more sturdy. My trees take a beating when I move them. for asthetics.... I'd pick your option 1. I really like that shape. Good work
thank you. Yea same here
 
First off congratulations @Fishinjunky. Both of your trees look fantastic. I do prefer your first trees look, which is amazing. The second tree also looks very good with a nice thick trunk, and good branches. On a side note it looks clear that you're using Roofing patch/tar for
sealing off, or for texting pruning wounds. But it looks like you don't seal off the very top of the pruning wound? Why not? Are you primarily Sealing to protect from insects?? @Fig Gazer uses a similar technique but seals the top of the wound as well. Just curious


At this point I've mostly grown the pinched method. Concentrating on employing fertigation to thicken my trunks, which has not failed me. I use a combination of synthetic, and organic fertilizers. Rotating my use depending on the look of my fig trees. This coming year I will grow the whip method. It produced a fantastic amount of quality cuttings, on the trees I allowed to grow this way. It also tends to create a more vigorous growing tree with a thick, and lovely looking trunk. At this point we're just collecting coveted varieties. Next year I plan to Harvest some great looking cuttings. The actual fruiting Orchard needs to be protected at the middle, and end of autumn to prolong the ripening of some great looking fruit.
 
First off congratulations @Fishinjunky. Both of your trees look fantastic. I do prefer your first trees look, which is amazing. The second tree also looks very good with a nice thick trunk, and good branches. On a side note it looks clear that you're using Roofing patch/tar for
sealing off, or for texting pruning wounds. But it looks like you don't seal off the very top of the pruning wound? Why not? Are you primarily Sealing to protect from insects?? @Fig Gazer uses a similar technique but seals the top of the wound as well. Just curious


At this point I've mostly grown the pinched method. Concentrating on employing fertigation to thicken my trunks, which has not failed me. I use a combination of synthetic, and organic fertilizers. Rotating my use depending on the look of my fig trees. This coming year I will grow the whip method. It produced a fantastic amount of quality cuttings, on the trees I allowed to grow this way. It also tends to create a more vigorous growing tree with a thick, and lovely looking trunk. At this point we're just collecting coveted varieties. Next year I plan to Harvest some great looking cuttings. The actual fruiting Orchard needs to be protected at the middle, and end of autumn to prolong the ripening of some great looking fruit.
Thank you.
I think the pic doesn't look like it but I also seal the top cut. I like to seal all cuts
 
My fig trees tend to do what they and have largely been ignored as I have been concentrating on getting mango trees established. I’m surprised no one has called FPS (Fig Protective Services) on me yet. 😇

Perhaps FPS is staking you out... as part of a long term sting? 😬
 
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