Automated irrigation by a Vista CA fruit zealot

Charlie Dodgson

Well-known member
This thread attempts to answer questions about our irrigation system posed by @TorontoJoe . Several posts will follow.

Additional questions from anyone are welcome.

Our 1/4 acre property is in northwest Vista CA, just inside USDA zone 10b on the side of a ridge. Properties directly downhill from here are in zone 10a.

It does not freeze here. In addition, temperatures are rarely above the high 80°Fs, owing to the cool Pacific Ocean eight miles to the west. Unlike Atlantic coast waters that flow up from the Caribbean, our Pacific coast waters flow down from the Gulf of Alaska.

TorontoJoe's query was prompted by a photo similar to this one, of two outdoor plants on micro-irrigation. (The plants were previously rooted indoors.) The right-hand pot is a Stuewe TP49.

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Along a portion of our southern fence, I have a row of five 8 ft. long x 2 ft. wide metal horticulture tables, piped with outdoor irrigation managed by hardwired indoor Rainbird SST controllers. There is a shade cloth canopy above the tables plus at the west and east ends. It not only provides shade, but also protects the plants from cloudbursts of heavy rain that occur here perhaps 6-8 times a year for 15 to 30 minutes.

The irrigation supports risers, like the one in the photo above. On the risers are DIG 12-Outlet Manifolds. The manifolds come with tubing, filters, and emitters. These last two items are unsuitable for my purposes. I only use the tubing, allowing free-flow through the system, and attach it to Black High Flow 160° Spot Spitters (Primerus Products SS-AG160BLK-100). The controllers run this system on Thursdays and Sundays for 3 minutes (although manually disabled during wet weather or temperatures below 45).

There are only a few irrigated plants on the table in the photo, because it and one other are used one day per week for manual watering of my indoor orchid collection. The three other tables are packed with pot trays for extra rooted fig plants in MT38 pots.

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Next, the controllers.
 
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Our 1200 sq.ft. house is on the right-front corner of the property, providing about 8100 sq.ft. for landscaping. The rainfall here is often less than 24 in./yr. and sometimes below 12 in./yr. Meanwhile, the evapotranspiration is about 32 in., so irrigation is a necessity for truly non-native plants.

The water pressure from the street is low (50 psi), so consequently many electric valves are needed to stagger the automatic irrigation over a long period. The outdoor irrigation is tapped directly into the pipe from the water meter with its own backflow protection, and the house water is further down the main pipe with another backflow valve plus a pressure regulator. Taking a shower or running the dishwasher indoors will severely reduce any irrigation flow outdoors, so I try to restrict irrigation to known days and times.

After purchasing the house in 2013, we remodeled, and then again in 2018. I installed a cabinet for irrigation controllers in the sunroom. There is a network of wires traveling outside the house to electric-valve substations on the property, and also a set of valves controlling water flow through three Dosatron fertigation pumps that deliver water + nutrients to the electric-valve substations.

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Thanks for the detailed write.
What would you estimate your total water usage for a week during summer? Over how many potted plants or emitters, generally speaking .

I'm in the process of creating a standalone water supply dedicated to irrigation because I also experience pressure drop in the household water supply . And with many different zones staggered to start in a watering session the duration of the pressure drop for the house isn't acceptable and it was time to find a solution.
 
Irrigation heads.

All my irrigation delivery is mounted on 1/2" diameter pipe thread risers.

In the first post, I detailed micro-irrigation. Here is the rest.

Front planter with California natives:
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The CA natives thrive on very little water. I have "line" streamers that only emit two streams, in the opposite direction of each. The supply pipe is damped down by an inline valve so that only a trickle shoots towards the plant. There is one head between each two plants.
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The rest of my heads are Orbit stream bubblers, in 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, or full circle pattern depending on the situation. Note: these shoot jets of water, they do not bubble.

You will notice that all my planters have masonry borders. These extend down a foot or more to insure that irrigation and rain (if any) stays localized along with the 1" cured conifer bark I use for mulch.

For potted plants, I use 1/4" cured conifer bark (aka orchid bark) for mulch.

Potted sage
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Potted mulberry
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Vegetable bed with stone reflectors to redirect water streams.
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Rose bed
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All in-ground trees have 4 irrigation heads, typically in 1/2 pattern.

Plinea edulis tree planter
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White Sapote tree planter
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@Charlie Dodgson I can't begin to express how much I enjoyed reading this thread. So well executed and so many little, very deliberate details that make so much sense. Right down to the tree tags in the cabinet. Great idea!

I also love how you use hard PVC right up to the pots. No tripping over 6mm drip lines that get distorted with the changing of the seasons

Nicely done!
 
I'm in the process of creating a standalone water supply
In the long run, it is often less expensive to purchase a second municipal water meter. You've been studying the alternative, so you already know that a large water storage tank is needed along with an electric pump to drive the water -- preferrably at around 80 psi. You might not be aware that a Pelton wheel can be attached at the water input pipe to the tank, and thus generate about 30% of the power required to drain the tank.

I've read about gardeners who purchase a water accelerator for their outdoor water supply. Be aware that the pressure from a pressure-regulated municipal meter can only be increased at the expense of volume; more pressure equals less volume per minute. Many municipalities forbid the use of these devices because they wear out water meters.

Our water meter is read every two months. The typical two month water consumption is 47 x 100 cu.ft. This includes per week about 10 showers, 3 loads of laundry, 3 runs of the dishwasher, 70 toilet flushes, and miscellaneous usage of the sinks.
 
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