Everyone should learn to graft (esp newbs)

[grasshopper]

Thanks. I'll have to talk to him and see what he wants to do. Right now he is satisfied with his low-maintenance approach and the figs he is getting.

Maybe you can let him know about the different flavor profiles and the varieties available. In terms of maintenance, grafting takes a bit more work at the beginning but not significantly more. Good pruning takes as much time as well.

 

[grasshopper]

I found a couple of native red mulberries where I work that are small enough I’m going to try digging them up and bringing home. Might take to our field and plant.

I used some of the local seedlings for rootstocks but be aware of their tendency to grow really big(like 30-60 ft). When I grafted a vigorous variety like DMOR9 on them, they can grow 10-15 ft in one season. I had to use ladder each season to prune them back or pick the fruit.

Even a small one can have a very extensive root system. Be prepared. But this is a good time to dig them as they go dormant.

 

[superdave336]

Right here is my backhoe.

 

[superdave336]

I used some of the local seedlings for rootstocks but be aware of their tendency to grow really big(like 30-60 ft). When I grafted a vigorous variety like DMOR9 on them, they can grow 10-15 ft in one season. I had to use ladder each season to prune them back or pick the fruit.

Even a small one can have a very extensive root system. Be prepared. But this is a good time to dig them as they go dormant.

Yeah I’ve heard they get extremely vigorous. Maybe I shouldn’t get them. I have some other mulberries in nursery pots.

 

[PapaFig]

Yes - it's a very important point for us. In our zone, where we live, we are likely over the course of a decade or two to get a killing freeze.

There are other hazards as well, like losing the graft (I know that may sound unlikely, but over time, it becomes increasingly hard to see), or rejection in times of stress - sometimes a well healed graft will fail. I am speaking in general here, not just for figs.

Harvey recommends planting the union below the frost line (that's 10" where I'm at) but I worry about differentiating it from RS at that point. So we keep the grafts in pots for now and haven't planted them inground.

The mulberry is commonly grafted because our native red mulberry is a very good, vigorous and, most importantly, rootable variety. Most other varieties (nigra) are difficult/impossible to root (I think M. Dirr gives a low number, indicating it's possible). Although I've read elsewhere there are other rootable varieties (dwarf everbearing, Pakistani, I'm not sure) - the red is native and readily available so I use it. I have about 15 or that have long outgrown their pots. They are AGGRESSIVE growers, be prepared to attack it or it will get out of control.

 

[grasshopper]

I don't have a good solution with the inground grafts. I am going to try out simple protection method(s) to see if they can hold in our zone. In general, I avoid planting anything including grafts that are not cold hardy for the zone in ground.

There are exceptions like DMOR9, which failed to take on my potted mulberry. But it did exceptional well on my inground local seedling. DMOR9 is cold hardy to zone 9 and I am in zone 8b. Last year, with a warm early spring and then a cold snap in the teens killed off most of the thinner branches(sharpie). However, the grafts mostly survived probably due to its vigorous and ability to grow thick(2"+) in just a season. It regrew all the losses and then some and even fruited in some branches so I was pleased it wasn't a total loss.

 

[Franfig]

I don't have a good solution with the inground grafts. I am going to try out simple protection method(s) to see if they can hold in our zone. In general, I avoid planting anything including grafts that are not cold hardy for the zone in ground.

There are exceptions like DMOR9, which failed to take on my potted mulberry. But it did exceptional well on my inground local seedling. DMOR9 is cold hardy to zone 9 and I am in zone 8b. Last year, with a warm early spring and then a cold snap in the teens killed off most of the thinner branches(sharpie). However, the grafts mostly survived probably due to its vigorous and ability to grow thick(2"+) in just a season. It regrew all the losses and then some and even fruited in some branches so I was pleased it wasn't a total loss.

. @gresshopper How do you like the taste of DMOR9? I am planning to get some scion wood and graft it into an air layer

 

[superdave336]

Yes all the mulberry varieties I have I rooted from cuttings and Pakistani is one of them. I had planned to plant them in ground somewhere once larger but I’m second guessing hearing some of these stories. Jan Doolin on YouTube is who I bought them all from and hers are in ground, small and manageable but she might be really pruning aggressively I’m also not sure I want them popping up everywhere from birds….lol

 

[grasshopper]

. @gresshopper How do you like the taste of DMOR9? I am planning to get some scion wood and graft it into an air layer

I like it and it would do much better in your location, with a cooler climate being closer to the ocean and a mild winter as it breaks buds early.

 

[Ghostfig]

To mostly the new people who are rooting a boatload of cuttings, I strongly encourage you to graft. For so many reasons:

1. Save space. Having a fewer number of pots is much easier to move, store, protect/heat. If you are shuffling and keeping them in a reasonably protected space you don't have to worry about them freezing. I think most potted trees dying during winter is simply because there are so many of them, the owners could not take care of them well. A large tarp over a a huge pile of pots outside is far different than an insulated/heated structure. It’s also hard to water trees in a giant mound of pots in the winter.

2. Accelerate trialing and culling. Unless you are collecting for collecting sake, you are like most in that you are trying all these different varieties to see how they do in your area, will they ripen, do you like the taste. A graft on mature rootstock will accelerate your evaluation process. You don't have to wait 3-5 years to see how that fig will be for you. You can find out within a year or 2. If you really like it, air layer it or root a cutting. Hate it, graft over with a new variety in the spring.

3. Maximize your expensive cuttings. I like to root 3 nodes. 1 above, 2 under. If I receive a cutting with more nodes I will whip/tongue, chip bud, cleft, etc the rest of the material. That also means I will wait to root cuttings until late winter or if you headstart your trees wait until they are starting to bud out before using them as donors.

4. Boost growth and fruiting potential of slow growing varieties (I’m looking at you, BM!) I am impatient. I want results for my time, effort, money and you should too.

Problems people run into.

1. This is their first year doing figs of any kind so no donor trees. Take this year to root out a bunch of strong rootstock. For example, Desert King, or brown turkey, etc. You can literally get those for free. See if any family members, friends, or neighbors will let you graft onto their existing trees as well.

2. Scared of cutting themselves with a grafting knife. There are grafting tools that uou can use to avoid cutting yourself. You will be limited to pretty much a cleft graft but that is still better than nothing. @MJFIGS has a video on his channel where he uses a tool. @figologist I did happen to notice the blood on your chip bud graft video. I also cut myself the first time I did that one, lol.

3. Don’t know how to get started. On Youtube there is a channel by JSacadura. To date, the best filmed and explained plant propagation channel I have see. He also has a video on the fig wasp with amazing footage. In addition, he is very calming like Bob Ross but with plants.

I am not trying to sound like a grafting master. In fact, I’m far from it, but still experience a lot of success grafting. Once I got the hang of it, my success rate far surpassed my rooting success. There are a bunch of times when a cutting failed but a graft from the cutting took. It saved me a whole bunch of money and a whole years time. Who wants to wait until a whole year to try and buy a cutting again? Anyways, here’s to hoping people will try grafting this year.

Do you wear rubber gloves when doing this on fig trees to avoid getting burned by the latex - esp since multiple people are saying it's best to do this when the tree isn't dormant? I'm noticing JSacadura never wears any gloves in his videos.

 

[IAK]

Do you wear rubber gloves when doing this on fig trees to avoid getting burned by the latex - esp since multiple people are saying it's best to do this when the tree isn't dormant? I'm noticing JSacadura never wears any gloves in his videos.

I personally don’t. You should if you have a latex allergy. I have also heard of long time fig collectors developing latex allergies from all the years of working with figs, but I’m not sure how accurate that is. Maybe others will chime in.

 

[Jigfig]

I personally don’t. You should if you have a latex allergy. I have also heard of long time fig collectors developing latex allergies from all the years of working with figs, but I’m not sure how accurate that is. Maybe others will chime in.

Fig latex doesn’t bother me, but it very well could be an allergy worsened from repeated exposure.

 

[StrangeCharmSam]

Adding gloves to the grafting supplies list, check...

 

[FigLab]

To mostly the new people who are rooting a boatload of cuttings, I strongly encourage you to graft. For so many reasons:

1. Save space. Having a fewer number of pots is much easier to move, store, protect/heat. If you are shuffling and keeping them in a reasonably protected space you don't have to worry about them freezing. I think most potted trees dying during winter is simply because there are so many of them, the owners could not take care of them well. A large tarp over a a huge pile of pots outside is far different than an insulated/heated structure. It’s also hard to water trees in a giant mound of pots in the winter.

2. Accelerate trialing and culling. Unless you are collecting for collecting sake, you are like most in that you are trying all these different varieties to see how they do in your area, will they ripen, do you like the taste. A graft on mature rootstock will accelerate your evaluation process. You don't have to wait 3-5 years to see how that fig will be for you. You can find out within a year or 2. If you really like it, air layer it or root a cutting. Hate it, graft over with a new variety in the spring.

3. Maximize your expensive cuttings. I like to root 3 nodes. 1 above, 2 under. If I receive a cutting with more nodes I will whip/tongue, chip bud, cleft, etc the rest of the material. That also means I will wait to root cuttings until late winter or if you headstart your trees wait until they are starting to bud out before using them as donors.

4. Boost growth and fruiting potential of slow growing varieties (I’m looking at you, BM!) I am impatient. I want results for my time, effort, money and you should too.

Problems people run into.

1. This is their first year doing figs of any kind so no donor trees. Take this year to root out a bunch of strong rootstock. For example, Desert King, or brown turkey, etc. You can literally get those for free. See if any family members, friends, or neighbors will let you graft onto their existing trees as well.

2. Scared of cutting themselves with a grafting knife. There are grafting tools that uou can use to avoid cutting yourself. You will be limited to pretty much a cleft graft but that is still better than nothing. @MJFIGS has a video on his channel where he uses a tool. @figologist I did happen to notice the blood on your chip bud graft video. I also cut myself the first time I did that one, lol.

3. Don’t know how to get started. On Youtube there is a channel by JSacadura. To date, the best filmed and explained plant propagation channel I have see. He also has a video on the fig wasp with amazing footage. In addition, he is very calming like Bob Ross but with plants.

I am not trying to sound like a grafting master. In fact, I’m far from it, but still experience a lot of success grafting. Once I got the hang of it, my success rate far surpassed my rooting success. There are a bunch of times when a cutting failed but a graft from the cutting took. It saved me a whole bunch of money and a whole years time. Who wants to wait until a whole year to try and buy a cutting again? Anyways, here’s to hoping people will try grafting this year.

This makes a lot of sense. I'd love to learn grafting. Im not afraid of getting cut, but i know tools make a big difference.

Could somebody suggest a good starter knife or kit?

Thank you

 

[DELFIG]

This makes a lot of sense. I'd love to learn grafting. Im not afraid of getting cut, but i know tools make a big difference.

Could somebody suggest a good starter knife or kit?

Thank you

Just need a good knife....this worked well for me...

Grafting and Pruning Knives

Find the best grafting and pruning knife among our vast range of trimming tools, made with the utmost care for quality. Available also with bark lifter.

www.duebuoiagriculture.com

 

[grasshopper]

Spend the few extra seconds putting the gloves on. Cuts from sharp grafting knife can send you to the emergency room and put you or your hand(s) out of commission for a while. It is kind of like airbag/seatbelt in a car. You don't normally need it but sure glad it is there when you least expected.

I used kitchen paring knife for my first grafts. Then, got a Stainless steel Victorinox/Felco budding knife with bark lifter(they have model with separate bark lifter instead of top of the blade bark lifter but that costs more), ABS handle(they have wood handle models, again costs more), nothing fancy. I think the basic one used to run $15, about double now. Stainless steel blades don't need sharpening often but takes a bit effort to sharpen compared to carbon steel blades.

Basically, you need a knife that is super sharp (single beveled ideally) and sturdy enough so it doesn't bent or break under force. An utility knife, which is not single beveled, also works. For single beveled blades, there are left handed and right handed version. If you do mostly US style cuts (slicing or pulling towards yourself), you pick the ones that is for your dominant hand. However, other countries may prefer pushing cuts and their left handed version is for your right hand if you do pulling cuts.

e.g. When buying a chinese/japanese made blade, but using US style pulling cuts and right handed, I would pick their left handed blade unless I change my cutting style to push instead of pull. I do both styles but I prefer the pulling cuts because of better control. However, I do need the pushing cuts at times due to location of the grafts. So, I think with either left or right handed blade, you just need to adapt. But do pick one that you use most often.

I think Jamie suggest having 2 knifes. One with longer handle for leverage and longer, sturdier blade (for light hammering). I agree especially if you need to deal with older, thicker wood. Without that, I just use a chisel or a cheap knife.

I have multiple knifes so that I don't need to stop in the middle of a graft when I find the blade needs sharpening. Utility knife has the advantage of putting up a sharp blade on quickly.

 

[FigLab]

Spend the few extra seconds putting the gloves on. Cuts from sharp grafting knife can send you to the emergency room and put you or your hand(s) out of commission for a while. It is kind of like airbag/seatbelt in a car. You don't normally need it but sure glad it is there when you least expected.

I used kitchen paring knife for my first grafts. Then, got a Stainless steel Victorinox/Felco budding knife with bark lifter(they have model with separate bark lifter instead of top of the blade bark lifter but that costs more), ABS handle(they have wood handle models, again costs more), nothing fancy. I think the basic one used to run $15, about double now. Stainless steel blades don't need sharpening often but takes a bit effort to sharpen compared to carbon steel blades.

Basically, you need a knife that is super sharp (single beveled ideally) and sturdy enough so it doesn't bent or break under force. An utility knife, which is not single beveled, also works. For single beveled blades, there are left handed and right handed version. If you do mostly US style cuts (slicing or pulling towards yourself), you pick the ones that is for your dominant hand. However, other countries may prefer pushing cuts and their left handed version is for your right hand if you do pulling cuts.

e.g. When buying a chinese made blade, but using US style pulling cuts and right handed, I would pick their left handed blade unless I change my cutting style to push instead of pull. I do both styles but I prefer the pulling cuts because of better control. However, I do need the pushing cuts at times due to location of the grafts. So, I think with either left or right handed blade, you just need to adapt. But do pick one that you use most often.

I think Jamie suggest having 2 knifes. One with longer handle for leverage and longer, sturdier blade (for light hammering). I agree especially if you need to deal with older, thicker wood. Without that, I just use a chisel or a cheap knife.

I have multiple knifes so that I don't need to stop in the middle of a graft when I find the blade needs sharpening. Utility knife has the advantage of putting up a sharp blade on quickly.

Thank you for taking the time to write it out! So helpful.

I've looked at grafting knives before, but usually gave up being overwhelmed with the choice. I feel much more prepared to make the choice now!

 

[Ghostfig]

Spend the few extra seconds putting the gloves on. Cuts from sharp grafting knife can send you to the emergency room and put you or your hand(s) out of commission for a while. It is kind of like airbag/seatbelt in a car. You don't normally need it but sure glad it is there when you least expected.

I used kitchen paring knife for my first grafts. Then, got a Stainless steel Victorinox/Felco budding knife with bark lifter(they have model with separate bark lifter instead of top of the blade bark lifter but that costs more), ABS handle(they have wood handle models, again costs more), nothing fancy. I think the basic one used to run $15, about double now. Stainless steel blades don't need sharpening often but takes a bit effort to sharpen compared to carbon steel blades.

Basically, you need a knife that is super sharp (single beveled ideally) and sturdy enough so it doesn't bent or break under force. An utility knife, which is not single beveled, also works. For single beveled blades, there are left handed and right handed version. If you do mostly US style cuts (slicing or pulling towards yourself), you pick the ones that is for your dominant hand. However, other countries may prefer pushing cuts and their left handed version is for your right hand if you do pulling cuts.

e.g. When buying a chinese made blade, but using US style pulling cuts and right handed, I would pick their left handed blade unless I change my cutting style to push instead of pull. I do both styles but I prefer the pulling cuts because of better control. However, I do need the pushing cuts at times due to location of the grafts. So, I think with either left or right handed blade, you just need to adapt. But do pick one that you use most often.

I think Jamie suggest having 2 knifes. One with longer handle for leverage and longer, sturdier blade (for light hammering). I agree especially if you need to deal with older, thicker wood. Without that, I just use a chisel or a cheap knife.

I have multiple knifes so that I don't need to stop in the middle of a graft when I find the blade needs sharpening. Utility knife has the advantage of putting up a sharp blade on quickly.

Can you use a swiss army knife blade or would you discourage this?

 

[oat]

Can you use a swiss army knife blade or would you discourage this?

If it’s sharp enough, it would work. I used a box cutter to graft many many times successfully. I would start with a good grafting or utility knife though. It’s important to start with strong and safe tool.

 

[grasshopper]

Can you use a swiss army knife blade or would you discourage this?

I agree with @oat that any sharp blade would work.

I started with kitchen paring knife because I used that knife daily. I knew it was sharp and I was very comfortable using it.

If you use a box cutter, try to get one with some kind of lock so the blade doesn't slide back & forth as it may get caught by the wood and the body is sturdy enough not to break. Having said that, even a regular box cutter would work if you are used to the blade and adjust your cut. Changing blades on a box cutter/utility knife takes seconds, much quicker compared to the time it takes to sharpen a regular blade properly.