Everyone should learn to graft (esp newbs)

ohiobruce said:
Thanks. I'll have to talk to him and see what he wants to do. Right now he is satisfied with his low-maintenance approach and the figs he is getting.
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Maybe you can let him know about the different flavor profiles and the varieties available. In terms of maintenance, grafting takes a bit more work at the beginning but not significantly more. Good pruning takes as much time as well.
 
superdave336 said:
I found a couple of native red mulberries where I work that are small enough I’m going to try digging them up and bringing home. Might take to our field and plant.
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I used some of the local seedlings for rootstocks but be aware of their tendency to grow really big(like 30-60 ft). When I grafted a vigorous variety like DMOR9 on them, they can grow 10-15 ft in one season. I had to use ladder each season to prune them back or pick the fruit.

Even a small one can have a very extensive root system. Be prepared. But this is a good time to dig them as they go dormant.
 
grasshopper said:
I used some of the local seedlings for rootstocks but be aware of their tendency to grow really big(like 30-60 ft). When I grafted a vigorous variety like DMOR9 on them, they can grow 10-15 ft in one season. I had to use ladder each season to prune them back or pick the fruit.

Even a small one can have a very extensive root system. Be prepared. But this is a good time to dig them as they go dormant.
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Yeah I’ve heard they get extremely vigorous. Maybe I shouldn’t get them. I have some other mulberries in nursery pots.
 
Yes - it's a very important point for us. In our zone, where we live, we are likely over the course of a decade or two to get a killing freeze.

There are other hazards as well, like losing the graft (I know that may sound unlikely, but over time, it becomes increasingly hard to see), or rejection in times of stress - sometimes a well healed graft will fail. I am speaking in general here, not just for figs.

Harvey recommends planting the union below the frost line (that's 10" where I'm at) but I worry about differentiating it from RS at that point. So we keep the grafts in pots for now and haven't planted them inground.

The mulberry is commonly grafted because our native red mulberry is a very good, vigorous and, most importantly, rootable variety. Most other varieties (nigra) are difficult/impossible to root (I think M. Dirr gives a low number, indicating it's possible). Although I've read elsewhere there are other rootable varieties (dwarf everbearing, Pakistani, I'm not sure) - the red is native and readily available so I use it. I have about 15 or that have long outgrown their pots. They are AGGRESSIVE growers, be prepared to attack it or it will get out of control.
 
I don't have a good solution with the inground grafts. I am going to try out simple protection method(s) to see if they can hold in our zone. In general, I avoid planting anything including grafts that are not cold hardy for the zone in ground.

There are exceptions like DMOR9, which failed to take on my potted mulberry. But it did exceptional well on my inground local seedling. DMOR9 is cold hardy to zone 9 and I am in zone 8b. Last year, with a warm early spring and then a cold snap in the teens killed off most of the thinner branches(sharpie). However, the grafts mostly survived probably due to its vigorous and ability to grow thick(2"+) in just a season. It regrew all the losses and then some and even fruited in some branches so I was pleased it wasn't a total loss.
 
grasshopper said:
I don't have a good solution with the inground grafts. I am going to try out simple protection method(s) to see if they can hold in our zone. In general, I avoid planting anything including grafts that are not cold hardy for the zone in ground.

There are exceptions like DMOR9, which failed to take on my potted mulberry. But it did exceptional well on my inground local seedling. DMOR9 is cold hardy to zone 9 and I am in zone 8b. Last year, with a warm early spring and then a cold snap in the teens killed off most of the thinner branches(sharpie). However, the grafts mostly survived probably due to its vigorous and ability to grow thick(2"+) in just a season. It regrew all the losses and then some and even fruited in some branches so I was pleased it wasn't a total loss.
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. @gresshopper How do you like the taste of DMOR9? I am planning to get some scion wood and graft it into an air layer
 
Yes all the mulberry varieties I have I rooted from cuttings and Pakistani is one of them. I had planned to plant them in ground somewhere once larger but I’m second guessing hearing some of these stories. Jan Doolin on YouTube is who I bought them all from and hers are in ground, small and manageable but she might be really pruning aggressively 🤷‍♂️ I’m also not sure I want them popping up everywhere from birds….lol
 
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