Setup Pics

LTCG

LTCG

Well-known member
Was hoping that you could post pictures of your container gardens here...never know what might be seen to spark interest or usability in someone elses' setup. I'm looking at an area about 25 X 40 this year. I havent got my setup done yet mainly because I'm still trying to figure out my irrigation but my next question will be trellising...I've seen some setups with T-posts and cabling stretched down the rows about every 2 foot high. Does that seem to help?
 
Currently I keep mine as shown in the pic below.
Part because my land slants downward toward the pond, and part so I can keep them off of the ground so ants don't move in.
Also we have a very healthy population of snails that love to eat bark.
So keeping them elevated helps.
It is slightly changed now, they are only 2 deep instead of 3.
So at the far end, it's 2 rows of pallets.

20250402_191721.jpg
 
ktrain said:
Currently I keep mine as shown in the pic below.
Part because my land slants downward toward the pond, and part so I can keep them off of the ground so ants don't move in.
Also we have a very healthy population of snails that love to eat bark.
So keeping them elevated helps.
It is slightly changed now, they are only 2 deep instead of 3.
So at the far end, it's 2 rows of pallets.
Click to expand...
Nice....hand water or irrigation?
 
I had irrigation bit ripped it all out, I am setting up to install it again but with spot spitters instead of drippers.
So until then, hand water.
 
My potted fig patch is roughly that size from memory. 150+ pots ranging from #3 to #15 pots.

T posts, 3 cables. The lowest one to support irrigation. Middle one and top one to support trees. I let some of them grow to 8-10ft without fear of falling over in wind.

Lock jaws for the Cable to attach to t posts easily.
Gripples for easy tensioning.

1744820741853.png
 
JC Figgy said:
My potted fig patch is roughly that size from memory. 150+ pots ranging from #3 to #15 pots.

T posts, 3 cables. The lowest one to support irrigation. Middle one and top one to support trees. I let some of them grow to 8-10ft without fear of falling over in wind.

Lock jaws for the Cable to attach to t posts easily.
Gripples for easy tensioning.
Click to expand...
Me likie...How far apart do you have each post....how long is each run of cable?
 
I’ll be installing the trellis system this season like @JC Figgy. I got all the supplies—just need to find the time and energy. When I install the t-posts, I’m expanding my rows to 5-ft wide because 4-ft wasn’t enough.

I have high hopes for the trellis system—in addition to supporting irrigation and preventing toppling pots, I expect it will train the scaffolds more horizontal as I tie them down to the cables. Last year, I ended up with a bunch of giraffe trees because the branches started growing vertically again due to light competition and insufficient shaping provided by the branches spreaders.

I just drove 5 T-posts in a half hour (well six if you count the one I set the wrong direction). This isn’t going to be as much work as I thought. Thanks @JC Figgy for all the help.IMG_4467.jpeg
 
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9ah-figlet said:
I’ll be installing the trellis system this season like @JC Figgy. I got all the supplies—just need to find the time and energy. When I install the t-posts, I’m expanding my rows to 5-ft wide because 4-ft wasn’t enough.

I have high hopes for the trellis system—in addition to supporting irrigation and preventing toppling pots, I expect it will train the scaffolds more horizontal as I tie them down to the cables. Last year, I ended up with a bunch of giraffe trees because the branches started growing vertically again due to light competition and insufficient shaping provided by the branches spreaders.

I just drove 5 T-posts in a half hour (well six if you count the one I set the wrong direction). This isn’t going to be as much work as I thought. Thanks @JC Figgy for all the help.View attachment 5939
Click to expand...
Way to go. Do a little each time and it’ll be done in no time. I agree. At the minimum 5ft. 6 ft if you have the space!
 
I had 3 rows last year. The main row 100' long had a trellis wire. and I put my tallest trees on it. I can get a good bit of wind in my location, and I found the wire rubbed the limbs alot. My other two rows I opted to drive a rebar spike on the inner edge of the pot, down through the bottom, it worked great. No more toppled trees and more rubbing damage.
I also used 4' wide ground cover and left 5 feet between to get the riding mower down through them.
 
Should the posts be set on a bit of an angle away form the direction of tension so that once it is tensioned it will pull them straight or am I over thinking?
 
LTCG said:
Should the posts be set on a bit of an angle away form the direction of tension so that once it is tensioned it will pull them straight or am I over thinking?
Click to expand...
If you want it real tight then yes, other wise it's not super important.
 
LTCG said:
Should the posts be set on a bit of an angle away form the direction of tension so that once it is tensioned it will pull them straight or am I over thinking?
Click to expand...
I have Alot of wind at times and this is what I felt good about installing for myself
 

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Does this look good or should I orient the rows N to S in the other direction?
 

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LTCG said:
Recommendations on size of wire? Should it be coated to cause less damage?
Click to expand...
12-gauge wire and gripples from Deerbusters is what I used on @JC Figgy ’s recommendation.

Fig Trellis using T Posts, Mono, Lockjaws and Gripples.

12 Gauge Mono https://www.deerbusters.com/monofilament-tension-wire-12-gauge/

12 Gauge Gripple https://www.deerbusters.com/deer-fe...nd-connectors/gripple-for-monofilament-12-ga/

LockJaws https://www.lockjawz.com/products/l...JYhoxCn7L7_CNdyEHEBebK9c1DODrLFwaArLIEALw_wcB

Clip to hang irrigation pipe to wire
 
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