How I Root Fig Cuttings Indoors—The Ultimate Guide

@Inflorescence In this ultimate rooting guide thread on rooting method tips - water rooting, I see a tip cut suspended over water. How do you suspend the cutting? Is it held in place with the plastic wrap? Tightly or is there a bit of breathing room?
 
@Inflorescence In this ultimate rooting guide thread on rooting method tips - water rooting, I see a tip cut suspended over water. How do you suspend the cutting? Is it held in place with the plastic wrap? Tightly or is there a bit of breathing room?

It was held in place tightly by the plastic wrap and leaves. It was a young seedling that had already leafed out in my yard. It was accidentally broken off from its roots and I rooted it by poking it through the plastic wrap and using the leaves to hold it in place. I adjusted the water level to match where the bottom hit.

Something like that can be duplicated with a regular cutting by using very little water in the bottom or with a wet paper towel in the bottom of a glass and sitting the cutting bottom into it. Water rooting in many ways is like a type of pre-rooting, which is what the paper towel is usually associated with. Just be aware that the paper towel can mold, so it’s good to change it out after a few days.
 
thanks for this great information. I've been putting off watching tons of youtube videos hoping to glean the best info on rooting cuttings; now I can skip all that (which probably would have yielded less than desirable results anyway) and just start to "learn by doing" following your guide. I really appreciate this, I feel like I skipped a few years of flailing around trying to find what you shared here. Thank you!
 
ACCLIMATING & UP-POTTING TIPS

▪️I take my rooted cuttings outside once low temps are consistently over 40-45° and any danger of frost has passed. I use my outside trees as a marker as well, if they are waking up and leafing out, it’s usually a good sign weather has become conducive to growing.

Usually, spring sunlight is not as intense, and I place them in filtered light or part shade without much need for acclimation when done early. The hotter and more intense the sunlight, the better to place them in shade first and gradually increase sunlight exposure. Watch your weather, the time of day, & watch how they do in the first hour. If they show signs of wilting, keep them in the shade or bring them back indoors.

(I generally do not give full sunlight exposure until I have them in 5 gallons, as sunlight here can be too intense for the smaller rooting systems. Frequent watering can help to compensate for that, but I just find it easier to wait for the larger pot so that I’m not constantly watering or having to move them back & forth.)

▪️I wait until the cutting is nearly rootbound before the first up-pot. You do not want to up-pot before then for the first time and it is not something I rush. Check to see if roots are poking out the bottom of the pot, or very gently, slightly push the plant from the bottom up to elevate it out of the pot a bit and check root growth. Do not completely remove it from the pot before checking for sufficient root growth to ensure the root mass & rooting mix will hold together and not fall apart if removed.View attachment 2148


A rooted cutting can be kept in a tree pot for years if needed, though not recommended if you actually want to try the figs at some point.

I up-pot from 4x9 treepots directly into 5-7 gallons using my regular potting mix. If I have extras or backups of a variety, I generally keep them indefinitely in treepots, or I up-pot to 3 gallons.
I’m an experienced gardener but new to figs. Other plants do not so well being rootbound and would benefit from scoring or loosening of the root ball when up potting, but I’m getting the impression (which could totally be wrong) that figs don’t like their roots disturbed at all, and it’s best to just pot the rootbound root mass gently and directly into a hole in the larger pot’s soil. Am I wrong on this?
 
I’m an experienced gardener but new to figs. Other plants do not so well being rootbound and would benefit from scoring or loosening of the root ball when up potting, but I’m getting the impression (which could totally be wrong) that figs don’t like their roots disturbed at all, and it’s best to just pot the rootbound root mass gently and directly into a hole in the larger pot’s soil. Am I wrong on this?
I think it’s blown out of proportion that figs can’t be uppotted frequently or have their roots disturbed. As with any tender young plant, be gentle early on and don’t tug at the roots. If constantly plugging a rootbound plant into a larger container, you’ll get a mass of circling roots at the center of rootball - I found that out over Winter. In my opinion, best practices would be to score in late Winter each season regardless if uppotting to larger container.

I’m also relatively new to figs, but I agree with your initial assessment.
 
Once the tree has a season behind it and you take a peek at the root growth, if it needs pruning I wouldn't hesitate.
Maybe it can go two seasons before you do it...long as the roots are mature and hardened...they can handle being pruned.

I did many trees with a saw, cutting at least 2 sides (having gone back in the same size container) and the trees were just fine.
I did this after dormancy, closer to spring.
Of course you don't want to cut off too much because some of the stored energy is there...but it can be done.
 
@Inflorescence I can't tell you how many times I've gone back to specific parts of your post... Kind of like a grow-along. I have had my cuttings n a grow tent on shelves under lights after they get a few leaves and a heat mat under them with a layer of towels and cardboard between. Was doing the heat mat because I needed more heat because my husband keeps it cold in the house.

I've been using your basic technique - 4x9 tree pots with plastic bags wrapped around them but when I saw about 3-4 leaves I removed the plastic and started watering a little with kelp and then very dilute fertilizer. The majority of my cuttings have done well but I've had some that get some small leaves on a tiny thin stem and then they just dry up and die.

I did read what you said about the heat mat possibly drying them out from the bottoms. I think that might be what's happening because my finger on the soil feels slightly damp about an inch in, but when I lifted the pot it was very light.

I'm going to turn off the heat mat and get a thermometer and check tomorrow to see if maybe the lights are enough to keep it warm enough if I keep the tent zipped up.

I have one question and that is whether or not you think some varieties might not be able to take the amount of light on young leaves? Since I'm treating them all the same and watering the same. Or is it possible the ones that wither just have leaves but not enough roots and what they do have just can't take the heat I had them on so the watering I'm doing wouldn't help anyway?
 
I have one question and that is whether or not you think some varieties might not be able to take the amount of light on young leaves? Since I'm treating them all the same and watering the same. Or is it possible the ones that wither just have leaves but not enough roots and what they do have just can't take the heat I had them on so the watering I'm doing wouldn't help anyway?

I don’t think it matters by variety, but by the state of the plant itself. I usually do not put mine under lights until I am certain they have roots. This is because you need both roots and leaves to regulate moisture.

Very thin cuttings can lose moisture very fast. They also have a lower store of carbohydrates, so these can peter out very quickly with just a small amount of growth. They don’t gain enough growth fast enough to replenish the used sugars. They can die because of lack of strength or because of desiccation. Many choose to graft with these instead because they can get more water and nutrients from the rootstock than they can on their own. That said, I have had some great plants come from rooted small cuttings, so it is not impossible.

If you only have leaves, but no roots, the plant will lose moisture through the leaves. Sunlight, or strong grow lights, will cause the plant to put out more moisture. So in a case where I have some top growth, but not enough to indicate roots as well, I keep them bagged and exposed to ambient light only. You do not want darkness because you want the leaves to be able to do a little photosynthesis to get energy for root growth. I keep them bagged to help prevent moisture loss until they can get water from roots.

It’s only after I am certain that I have roots too that I remove the bag and turn on the grow lights. I realize that can be hard to know with a treepot. But there are indications to look for. Sometimes with bagged pots, you will see roots coming out at the bottom or even out the top because of the humidity. The top growth also will progress with roots. Usually if there are no roots, the top growth can happen to an extent but it is minimal and halts at a certain point. So once I see continual progression, that usually is an indication that there are roots too.

A cutting will eventually wither though if it never develops roots, even if it has a small leaf or two. There’s nothing you can do about that, it’s just what the cutting did for reasons unknown to us. It used up what little it had and didn’t have whatever it needed for roots to grow. It could be that it desiccated too much, it could have rotted, it could be that it was low on stored nutrients, or it could be that it didn’t have the hormones needed. The same is true in the opposite situation if you have roots but no top growth.

If you have roots, but no top growth, you want to lower the heat mat temp and expose the top to warm ambient air because it is the air temperature that will help to stimulate top growth. Without the leaves, the plant will not fully pull up water and nutrients from the medium. The leaves are what drive that upward pull and help to regulate moisture throughout the plant.

All of that said, you do need to be careful that your grow lights are not too strong. This does not happen often, usually they are not strong enough. But if someone gets a professional grow setup with a lot of professional grow lights, it can be too intense for a young plant. Usually in a set up like that though, there can be something that lowers the intensity or that allows you to raise the lights up higher away from the plant.

You do need to watch the heat level. Grow lights can put out a lot of heat. Usually, you can feel the light yourself with your hand to see if it is warm or even hot, this will give you an idea of what your plant is experiencing. I do put a little small temperature thing next to my plants so I can check it. I have some grow lights now that for some reason are really warming up one corner of my grow set up, and it was the thermometer that let me see the difference because from where I was, I couldn’t tell on my own.

Heat mats are usually only used to stimulate root growth. Once you have roots, you can turn it off completely if the ambient temps are warm enough. If they are not, then you can keep the mat on, but lower the temperature on it so that the roots do not “cook” from too much heat exposure. In a normal outdoors soil environment, the roots are kept cooler than the leaves which are exposed to warm air and sun.

Hope that helps! If I ran off in a different direction and didn’t answer your question fully, let me know.
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much that answered my question and more so I have lots to think about and tweak...- you are very good at explaining the "why". I really appreciate the time you took to help me. I really do. I will be changing a few things tomorrow 😄 can't thank you enough!
 
Thank you so much that answered my question and more so I have lots to think about and tweak...- you are very good at explaining the "why". I really appreciate the time you took to help me. I really do. I will be changing a few things tomorrow 😄 can't thank you enough!
You’re very welcome! I’m happy to help, it makes my day when I hear people have success and joy from growing figs. 😊
 
Last edited:
For those without access to heat mats, house temperatures can be much warmer near the ceiling. My favorite spot in our last house was on the second floor on top of a high hutch. Now I use the top shelf of a well-heated closet.
 
@Inflorescence great job, this is all very nicely detailed, and helpful information that is good for anyone, whether they are a beginner or experienced grower. You done fantastic job, if this were published i would buy a copy for myself!
 
Closing Comments

I feel like I have poured my brain out into type written form with this guide, and yet I am certain I have missed something. That’s okay, it leaves room for someone else to tell you all about those vitally missed points in their own thread which keeps the forum world spinning.

The earth and everything in it is made for growing. Nature just has a way of taking care of everything one way or another. And that is certainly the case with growing figs, they just want to grow. So, there can be many right answers to questions on growing them. Much is subjective, and that is certainly what this guide is— my opinion, nothing more, and it should be treated as such.

I am a lazy gardener. I procrastinate and take the easy way whenever I can. I know for a fact there are people with way better growing technique than I implement. I also know for a fact there are people with way worse growing technique! 😏

Somehow though, I have ended up with a ton of trees in spite of me and my lollygagging ways. I have gained quite a bit of knowledge in this time. I hope this adequately shares it with you to help facilitate your own fig growing journey.

But let’s be real. The majority will retain like 1% of this and will learn best by doing. So get out there and do! (And then write your own guide for the next generation of growers. 🙂)


Credit where credit is due: My most successful rooting experiments were heavily inspired by AZfig, MJFIGS, & AscPete on OF and there are bits and pieces from each of them in this guide. I thank them for what they have shared over the years.

Also, not all pictures are mine and some were gathered through internet searches. I tried to give credit when the source was known.
@Inflorescence thank you for the Ultimate Guide to growing fig cuttings. I appreciate your time in creating this content and sharing it with all of the Fig Fanatics!
 
It sure is. After looking at the ones I had that were fine then wilted I think that golden wisdom explains my issues perfectly. I've been so frustrated because they start growing and have pretty leaves but then were wilting- I now understand why once the roots start it doesn't need a heat mat anymore. Actually I took my fig pop experiments to the laundry room and put them up high where it's always warm with no mat. And the 4x9s that don't fit in there are now on the highest shelf I can reach in the spare room with nice grow lights and the air conditioning vent closed off. Cooler roots warmer tops just like they would be in ground. One of mine that just started wilting got a nice drink from the bottom for a half hour and the leaves it has perked back up so I may have saved that one
 
Back
Top