Grafting options in Zone 7b

NYC_Fignetic

Well-known member
I have a 4 year old Tree inground which produced berry figs in zone 7b. I wanted to get some grafts but wanted to see the options as far as what varieties i would be able to graft on the inground tree?

I have a few varieties looking for what others have grafted and survived in Zone 7b
 
I grafted Smith about two years ago and it didn’t survive the winter. I tried again this past season by grafting it onto a tree closer to the house and wrapping it for winter protection—so we’ll see in a few months if it makes it.

In Zone 7b, graft survival really comes down to winter protection and placement. Grafts closer to the trunk and in a protected microclimate tend to do better, especially with wrapping.
 
I grafted Smith about two years ago and it didn’t survive the winter. I tried again this past season by grafting it onto a tree closer to the house and wrapping it for winter protection—so we’ll see in a few months if it makes it.

In Zone 7b, graft survival really comes down to winter protection and placement. Grafts closer to the trunk and in a protected microclimate tend to do better, especially with wrapping.
thank you i will check back with you in a few months see how it did after this winter. have you tried any other varieties like RDB, VDB, ondata, Angelito etc?
 
I stopped grafting in-ground figs here in 8A MD because last winter killed every graft here and another farm where I grafted. I'd say 8B or even 9 to have confidence grafts will survive unless you do serious winter protection..
oh that sucks, did you have the tree wrapped ?
 
You’re braver than me. I don’t wanna chance losing mine if I can help it. Especially my grandfather’s trees.
Only in extreme conditions will I cover them, typical winters my trees get by with no damage.
This pending storm...should it actually hit us with freezing rain, I will tarp the trees.
I only have 4 in ground and they are all in a line...so easy to get them covered.

I'm just going to keep an eye out...see what Sunday it going to bring.
 
This would be surprising to me as an issue. ? I graft many other fruits. Is it because its dying back? General wisdom is to bury the graft in figs
How would that work on an established inground tree? Stump cut the tree, then graft multiple varieties to stump, then mound up soil to bury the grafts?
 
My graft is above chest height, so mulching wasn’t an option. Instead, I placed an old 34-watt light bulb inside before wrapping the tree. So far, the lowest temperature inside has been 15 degrees for less than an hour, while the outside temperature dropped to 4 degrees. If this survives, I’ll add more grafts to my in-ground trees.
 

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I lived and grew figs in 6b, 8b and 10b. I need to protect the trees whether it is a graft or not when the real cold weather comes. It is just that 10b never get cold enough to need protection. Friends in zone 9 suffered damage as well.

To me, it is about what kind of protection is adequate for the specific fig tree(age and variety) in a specific area. A young graft is not much different from a young tree branch, which is more susceptible to frost damage under insufficient or no protection.
 
How would that work on an established inground tree? Stump cut the tree, then graft multiple varieties to stump, then mound up soil to bury the grafts?
Thats what id do. Just hypothesizing. In most trees you dont bury the graft, but figs are different because they die back a lot. But in ground figs above zone 7 are rough anyway. Id gradt then plant generally. This would only be an issue where youre expecting plants to die to the ground.
 
My graft is above chest height, so mulching wasn’t an option. Instead, I placed an old 34-watt light bulb inside before wrapping the tree. So far, the lowest temperature inside has been 15 degrees for less than an hour, while the outside temperature dropped to 4 degrees. If this survives, I’ll add more grafts to my in-ground trees.
I use Christmas lights and wrap with frost blankets and tarp, plus buckets of water under wrap.

I have been thinking to graft lower but with rootstock near the fence, light may not get down low enough if the graft is low.
 
How would that work on an established inground tree? Stump cut the tree, then graft multiple varieties to stump, then mound up soil to bury the grafts?
You don't have to stump cut the tree but cut it low enough to make your protection easier. It is easier to protect a 2-3 ft tree than a 6 ft+ one.

I have the additional sunlight factor to consider when the tree is too close to the fence or any structure.
 
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