TorontoJoe
Administrator
All this talk about other forums just confuses me. I can't imagine what you're talking about....... Regardless..... AscPete is a rock star...... Old school though... More Jimmy Page than Slash.... just saying
First Roots... Class of 2026
- Thread starter Figgin' A
- Start date
-
- Tags
- root checking rooting roots
All this talk about other forums just confuses me. I can't imagine what you're talking about....... Regardless..... AscPete is a rock star...... Old school though... More Jimmy Page than Slash.... just saying
BucksCountyFigs
Well-known member
I’m curious as to the parafilming. Parafilm works amazingly well for me, so I will stick to that, but I’m wondering how much you wrap/cover of the cutting, regardless of what you use?
I have been wrapping the parafilm from tip to about a cm above the soil level, but as I try to learn from other people and other methods, I noticed that wax dippers and some people only cover the very tip of the cutting (unless it’s an apical cutting).
What are everyone’s thoughts on this?
What do you use?
How much do you cover?
Do you cover the apical tip?
Thoughts?
Figgin' A
Well-known member
I think it's helpful to measure at least a few times initially, until you get the feel, then you can go by the feel. Otherwise, there is a high risk that you will either under or over-water, both of which are not good.Oh my, oops! I guess I have not been doing the water ratio in the right way. I just spray my hose into a big bin of pro mix, and mix it around with my hand until it feels right. I wasn’t measuring at all!
I’m confused about the Saran Wrap - so you wrap the entire pot, including the bottom?
In the pic, the wrap is loose and you can see the soil, but on the other pots, the wrap looks pretty secure, showing no access to the soil (keeping bugs out and moisture in). Could you please clarify how you wrap it again?
Yes, I wrap the entire pot. So, I take a piece that is long enough to cover the top, then wrap around the entire pot, covering the bottom, and finishing covering the top again. Then, I cut a small hole in the center with a knife and insert the cutting. If I forget and put the cutting in first and don't want to take it out, I just cover around it.
In the pic where you can see the soil, I pulled the plastic away so you can see how easy it is to open the pot to add water. The plastic is fairly loose too, which means I get air exchange and evaporation going on, the soil is breathing, which prevents the formation of condensate and molds from growing. The plastic may seem like it's tightly wrapped on some pots in the pic, but once I open it after a couple of days to check on the soil, I will loosen it quite a bit. The idea is to let the soil breathe.
Once I turn on the lights, I sometimes get green algae growing on the top of the soil. To prevent that, I sprinkle some vermiculite.
This is just one of many ways to do it, though. I think the best rooting process is the one that makes sense to you, that you understand, that you can easily follow, that's fun, and that gives you the results you want. If you don't understand it, try to force it, seems too difficult or boring to you, it will rarely work.
TorontoJoe
Administrator
When I root indoors I only do pops now. Mostly because I'm lazy and I can pretty much ignore them until it's time to pot up.. I apply parafilm to the top of the cutting down only as far down that it will cover any wood not in the bag. Then bury the the exposed wood and cinch tightly. Elastic bands work well. Tight electrical tape is my favourite.
I almost always remove apical buds on indoor rooted cuttings. It seems to be the primary source of rot for me. I have a much lower success rate when I leave them on.
ETXfigs
Well-known member
How does the apical buds contribute to rot? I thought people leave them on because of stored energy or something. Now I don't know if I should cut mine off.
Jigfig
Well-known member
Some people leave them on to keep their tree more straight and you don’t have to wait for another bud to swell. Can’t speak on them rotting.
BucksCountyFigs
Well-known member
I was surprised when I heard this, too, since I actually prefer the apical buds, lol. So satisfying to see them grow, and I don’t notice a difference in rooting success, but many people do.
It does make sense though.
1) There is a lot more deep surface area there that is crevice and folds, so moisture and/or fungus has a more of a chance to cause trouble at the apical tip, than anywhere else; and
2) I read that the hormones at the tip are balanced more towards green growth and the lower cuttings closer to the main trunk are balanced more towards rooting.
3) But luckily for us, figs are like tomatoes in that they can develop roots anywhere along a branch, so we get many more shots on goal to be able to develop more roots!
im thinking i didnt scratch the bark enough. i also am concerned mine is too wet since i followed another guide which said water till the water runs out the bottom then dcont water for 4-6 weeks. we're now 3 weeks in, i pulled em out and i didnt see any full roots, but did see some bumps that i bleieve are callus and the start of roots on most if not all
TorontoJoe
Administrator
It's not scientific by any means. It's just something I noticed years ago. I assume it's a result of it being a place to trap moisture, pests, fungus, bacteria etc, etc.... add to that a layer of film so it doesn't breathe... I often find the top bud gets discoloured, then soft and mushy.... then that works its way down.
I'm not advising anyone to do this. I'm just telling you what I do, and why. The only reason I'll leave one on now is if I don't feel there is enough cutting to work with and making it any smaller would be more detrimental.
As for keeping it straight.... I usually bury it below the original cutting anyways so that's not an issue for me.
superdave336
Well-known member
Personally I think it has more to do with the quality and freshness of the apical bud cutting. I’ve had some good ones, no issues do extremely well and then others struggle and rot away.