First Roots... Class of 2026

[Figgin' A]

This season, I am not using a heat mat... or grow lights from the start. A completely hands-off approach this year. I normally keep the temps at 73-75F at the roots and have lights on. I mostly root figs in tree pots, which makes it difficult to tell if the roots are starting to grow. My earliest ones have been at it for three weeks. The temps in my grow rooms sit at 66F right now. Is this enough to make cuttings start pushing out roots? Do I need to make adjustments? I have no idea. So, I went ahead and checked. Here is what I saw:

I hear this all the time - don't remove the cuttings until the roots fill out the pot, or you will damage the roots and maybe even kill your cutting. Yes, there is a risk of that. Especially if the roots are weak and the medium is too dense and heavy. If the medium is light and perfectly hydrated, it's not usually an issue. I flip the pot upside down, holding the cutting between the forefinger and middle finger, lift up the pot, and carefully lay the whole thing on its side. Then very gently crumble the soil, little by little, until I get to the cutting and/or roots. To put it all back, I add some soil to the pot, then place the cutting in the center, holding it upright with one hand, and carefully fill the space around it with soil. I use this method to up-pot my figs before the roots really fill out the entire pot.

Needless to say, if you are not comfortable with this, don't do it. But if you are, it's a really great way to check on your cuttings, identify any issues, and make adjustments early in the process. I do it so frequently that it's become a normal part of the process for me.

 

[grasshopper]

I prerooted cuttings in my early years in either coir or sphagnum peat moss. As a result, I have to move each one with roots and plant them in media. I get lazy nowadays and just stick them in a pot or bag.

I have also removed the soil to check for roots and cuttings conditions when unexpected things happened. Light medium is key to avoid a quick crumble, which may tear the roots unexpectedly. But I don't usually do it for up pot. I guess I am too lazy to do this. I also don't wait till it is root bounded, which may put the plant in stagnant mode.

I would still give the advice about being careful with the delicate roots as I can't tell how handy/clumsy people are with their hands. It only takes a second of inattention to lose a bunch of roots & kill the cutting. Been there, done that.

In my experience, cuttings would root above 60F. Setting the temperature higher just make it root a bit quicker.

 

[ETXfigs]

This season, I am not using a heat mat... or grow lights from the start. A completely hands-off approach this year. I normally keep the temps at 73-75F at the roots and have lights on. I mostly root figs in tree pots, which makes it difficult to tell if the roots are starting to grow. My earliest ones have been at it for three weeks. The temps in my grow rooms sit at 66F right now. Is this enough to make cuttings start pushing out roots? Do I need to make adjustments? I have no idea. So, I went ahead and checked. Here is what I saw:

I hear this all the time - don't remove the cuttings until the roots fill out the pot, or you will damage the roots and maybe even kill your cutting. Yes, there is a risk of that. Especially if the roots are weak and the medium is too dense and heavy. If the medium is light and perfectly hydrated, it's not usually an issue. I flip the pot upside down, holding the cutting between the forefinger and middle finger, lift up the pot, and carefully lay the whole thing on its side. Then very gently crumble the soil, little by little, until I get to the cutting and/or roots. To put it all back, I add some soil to the pot, then place the cutting in the center, holding it upright with one hand, and carefully fill the space around it with soil. I use this method to up-pot my figs before the roots really fill out the entire pot.

Needless to say, if you are not comfortable with this, don't do it. But if you are, it's a really great way to check on your cuttings, identify any issues, and make adjustments early in the process. I do it so frequently that it's become a normal part of the process for me.

What varieties are you rooting? How many cuttings?

 

[Figgin' A]

What varieties are you rooting? How many cuttings?

Nothing new and exciting yet, those are coming soon, but for now, just a few duplicates of the new varieties I really liked this season, like Angelito, Borda Barraquer, etc.

 

[Franfig]

Thank you for sharing your findings. I am going to do the same this year, no heat and no lights. I will place the cuttings indoors by the sliding door, where they will receive sunlight. I do have the advantage of having a very mild winter here in CA.

 

[Kompakfigs]

This season, I am not using a heat mat... or grow lights from the start. A completely hands-off approach this year. I normally keep the temps at 73-75F at the roots and have lights on. I mostly root figs in tree pots, which makes it difficult to tell if the roots are starting to grow. My earliest ones have been at it for three weeks. The temps in my grow rooms sit at 66F right now. Is this enough to make cuttings start pushing out roots? Do I need to make adjustments? I have no idea. So, I went ahead and checked. Here is what I saw:

I hear this all the time - don't remove the cuttings until the roots fill out the pot, or you will damage the roots and maybe even kill your cutting. Yes, there is a risk of that. Especially if the roots are weak and the medium is too dense and heavy. If the medium is light and perfectly hydrated, it's not usually an issue. I flip the pot upside down, holding the cutting between the forefinger and middle finger, lift up the pot, and carefully lay the whole thing on its side. Then very gently crumble the soil, little by little, until I get to the cutting and/or roots. To put it all back, I add some soil to the pot, then place the cutting in the center, holding it upright with one hand, and carefully fill the space around it with soil. I use this method to up-pot my figs before the roots really fill out the entire pot.

Needless to say, if you are not comfortable with this, don't do it. But if you are, it's a really great way to check on your cuttings, identify any issues, and make adjustments early in the process. I do it so frequently that it's become a normal part of the process for me.

I'm switching it up this year by strictly using 4x9 pots. Maybe I will propagate some test varieties so that I can check on their progress.

 

[Topfigs]

Great job! Just curious—what medium are you using for rooting?

 

[Figgin' A]

Great job! Just curious—what medium are you using for rooting?

ProMix HP.

 

[Figgin' A]

Thank you for sharing your findings. I am going to do the same this year, no heat and no lights. I will place the cuttings indoors by the sliding door, where they will receive sunlight. I do have the advantage of having a very mild winter here in CA.

Yeah, that's definitely helpful. I will turn on the lights once they start to leaf out, though. Up here, we have very little sun in winter, and the intensity is extremely low.

 

[Figgin' A]

I'm switching it up this year by strictly using 4x9 pots. Maybe I will propagate some test varieties so that I can check on their progress.

I've been mostly using tree pots in recent years and really like them. A couple of things that are annoying with tree pots:

1. You need to add water every two days.
2. Fungus gnats. They attack from the top and from the bottom. Had a bit of a problem last year.

So, what I did this time around is I loosely wrapped the pots with saran wrap and inserted the cuttings. This way, I get some air flow/breathing and no condensation like in fig pops, and only need to top up the water once every 7-10 days while they are rooting. It's easy to do too. So far, haven't seen any gnats. If they show up, I'd like to see them get in

 

[Kompakfigs]

I've been mostly using tree pots in recent years and really like them. A couple of things that are annoying with tree pots:

1. You need to add water every two days.
2. Fungus gnats. They attack from the top and from the bottom. Had a bit of a problem last year.

So, what I did this time around is I loosely wrapped the pots with saran wrap and inserted the cuttings. This way, I get some air flow/breathing and no condensation like in fig pops, and only need to top up the water once every 7-10 days while they are rooting. It's easy to do too. So far, haven't seen any gnats. If they show up, I'd like to see them get in

How moist is the soil at the beginning, fully drenched or at the clumping, no drips when squeezed state.

 

[Figgin' A]

How moist is the soil at the beginning, fully drenched or at the clumping, no drips when squeezed state.

In prior years, I used a 1:5 volume ratio. This year, I felt lazy and mixed it by feel. No water is coming out when you squeeze the soil. It feels damp. The one gallon tree pots filled almost to the brim, very lightly compacted, together with the cuttings and the plastic wrap, weighed 700g each. I added some water to those that were a little less than 700g.

 

[TorontoJoe]

@Figgin' A

Great looking roots! I do the flip test all the time.... Is it wise.. I don't know. I can't help it though. I need to know.

I've gone back and forth on how I measure mix to water... most often just by feel... or by ratio.

I haven't done it forever but once I put my soaked mix in a salad spinner and it was perfect.

 

[Figgin' A]

@Figgin' A

Great looking roots! I do the flip test all the time.... Is it wise.. I don't know. I can't help it though. I need to know.

I've gone back and forth on how I measure mix to water... most often just by feel... or by ratio.

I haven't done it forever but once I put my soaked mix in a salad spinner and it was perfect.

I look at it this way - this hobby, any hobby, is supposed to be fun. There is no fun in holding yourself back or restricting your curiosity. It's an advanced technique. You ask - is it wise? Is it wise to drive 100-120km/h on the highway? Yes, if you have a DL and experience. Why not? Not wise to jump on the highway with a learner's permit.

I mix by hand in a large bowl. Seems quick and easy for me. I start with two glasses, then add a little bit at a time, if needed, until the hydration feels just right.

 

[TorontoJoe]

I look at it this way - this hobby, any hobby, is supposed to be fun. There is no fun in holding yourself back or restricting your curiosity. It's an advanced technique. You ask - is it wise? Is it wise to drive 100-120km/h on the highway? Yes, if you have a DL and experience. Why not? Not wise to jump on the highway with a learner's permit.

I mix by hand in a large bowl. Seems quick and easy for me. I start with two glasses, then add a little bit at a time, if needed, until the hydration feels just right.

Please summarize the entire process in your TPS report.

 

[Figgin' A]

Please summarize the entire process in your TPS report.

And I’ll make sure to put a new cover sheet on my TPS report

 

[ohiobruce]

There is no fun in holding yourself back or restricting your curiosity.

I start with two glasses, then add a little bit at a time, if needed, until the hydration feels just right.

I agree completely. I'm new to this and have eight different rooting methods/variations going right now. I may not get what I want, but I am going to get some experience.

That "feels just right" is something I'll hopefully get. I've already failed on the too dry side.

Thanks for posting your 2026 journey. I'll be following along and learning.

 

[BucksCountyFigs]

I look at it this way - this hobby, any hobby, is supposed to be fun. There is no fun in holding yourself back or restricting your curiosity. It's an advanced technique. You ask - is it wise? Is it wise to drive 100-120km/h on the highway? Yes, if you have a DL and experience. Why not? Not wise to jump on the highway with a learner's permit.

I mix by hand in a large bowl. Seems quick and easy for me. I start with two glasses, then add a little bit at a time, if needed, until the hydration feels just right.

Oh my, oops! I guess I have not been doing the water ratio in the right way. I just spray my hose into a big bin of pro mix, and mix it around with my hand until it feels right. I wasn’t measuring at all!

I’m confused about the Saran Wrap - so you wrap the entire pot, including the bottom?

In the pic, the wrap is loose and you can see the soil, but on the other pots, the wrap looks pretty secure, showing no access to the soil (keeping bugs out and moisture in). Could you please clarify how you wrap it again?

 

[TorontoJoe]

Oh my, oops! I guess I have not been doing the water ratio in the right way. I just spray my hose into a big bin of pro mix, and mix it around with my hand until it feels right. I wasn’t measuring at all!

I’m confused about the Saran Wrap - so you wrap the entire pot, including the bottom?

In the pic, the wrap is loose and you can see the soil, but on the other pots, the wrap looks pretty secure, showing no access to the soil (keeping bugs out and moisture in). Could you please clarify how you wrap it again?

I've had fuzzy mold problems using plastic warp. Just my own experience. I Imagine the wrap is fairly tight to keep air and large humidity pockets out...

By default I stick to an old water to mix ratio I learned years ago from someone who I consider a master.... That's @ascpete. He promoted the 5:1 mix to water ratio by volume. I've moved on a bit from there including nutrients and paying attention to mass rather than volume... but this method has served me well

To be clear... my own method and opinion... If doing indoors... I don't wrap... I do pops. Parafilm around any exposed wood and a tightly sealed bag. The idea for me is "set it and forget it". For the most part, no adding water until first pot up...

I need to find some old pics of my fig pops

 

[Kompakfigs]

I've had fuzzy mold problems using plastic warp. Just my own experience. I Imagine the wrap is fairly tight to keep air and large humidity pockets out...

By default I stick to an old water to mix ratio I learned years ago from someone who I consider a master.... That's @ascpete. He promoted the 5:1 mix to water ratio by volume. I've moved on a bit from there including nutrients and paying attention to mass rather than volume... but this method has served me well

To be clear... my own method and opinion... If doing indoors... I don't wrap... I do pops. Parafilm around any exposed wood and a tightly sealed bag. The idea for me is "set it and forget it". For the most part, no adding water until first pot up...

I need to find some old pics of my fig pops

When I'm on the other forum, I am always searching for anything @ascpete has contributed especially his fertilizing regimen.