Fig with most net production?

[scott_va]

FigginA: Kudos on productivity for sure. Any hints (soil, fertilization) you care to share with mere mortals?

 

[Figology]

Joe, since we are in the same climate and we both live next to the lake, I'll chime in, though I strongly believe that most varieties are perfectly capable of producing abundantly given favorable growing conditions.

Here are the ones that really stood out for me in the 2023 season. Caveat: all my trees get a headstart, and all figs typically ripen.

I-258

VDB

Unk Prosciutto

Socorro Black

New varieties that I rooted last November (2023) that showed a lot of promise production-wise this post season:

Smith

Tia Penya

View attachment 2951

Crozes

Bourgasotte Grise

Craven's Craving

Very impressive!

 

[rnexus]

@Figgin' A
Do you minimally prune? Excessive pruning like most people do can reduce fruit production significantly by altering the hormones in the trees. My guess is you are finding a very good balance between stem growth and and stress. Allowing the trees to grow just well enough so there is not major stress is what we should all be trying to do. When moderately stressed a healthy tree will respond by producing more fruit.

Maybe you're just naturally talented at this?

It's going to require a growing media that is not too easy to dry out, not too easy to stay wet, proper fertilzation, keeping nitrogen on the lower end, very minimal pruning, and probably keeping the trees almost rootbound.

Impressive balance you have found, either naturally or by accident, or both?

 

[rnexus]

Joe, I think you should be looking for very slow growing varieties like Rigato del Salento, Bordisott Negra Rimada. Those trees produce huge amounts of fruits in a very small space. Small trees won't need to be pruned, much, or at all. I'll go through my notes sometime and find/remember some more of these slow growing massive fruit production trees. My White Madeira #1 should also be considered in that group i think, barely.

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

Lots of light is probably the most important factor. I give mine at least 30 DLI during fruit set. I know, easier said than done... unless you start them in a grow tent.

An early start will be our best bet going forward I think.
Other factors on my mind are tree architecture and annual pruning. Obviously plant nutrition plays a part too. While some varieties can produce with heavy pruning. I feel all varieties could produce well as you said. But identifying the optimal tree training to achieve this is what I need to ascertain.
I am thinking a main trunk, several scaffolds, then fruiting branches off the scaffolds. Each year remove the fruiting branches, but leave one or two nodes of the most recent seasons growth ( as you would do for grapes) and these nodes to produce new fruiting branches. Obviously this is a theory, not anything I’ve tested yet.

For the DLI, is a node triggered to fruit by the 30 DLI? I have always wondered what is the exact factor or factors that stimulate fruiting at a node, as all nodes have the ability to fruit but only some do.

 

[Figgin' A]

@Figgin' A
Do you minimally prune? Excessive pruning like most people do can reduce fruit production significantly by altering the hormones in the trees. My guess is you are finding a very good balance between stem growth and and stress. Allowing the trees to grow just well enough so there is not major stress is what we should all be trying to do. When moderately stressed a healthy tree will respond by producing more fruit.

Maybe you're just naturally talented at this?

It's going to require a growing media that is not too easy to dry out, not too easy to stay wet, proper fertilzation, keeping nitrogen on the lower end, very minimal pruning, and probably keeping the trees almost rootbound.

Impressive balance you have found, either naturally or by accident, or both?

Thank you. I prune mine pretty hard. Since I give my trees a long head start in grow tents, I need them to be compact enough before they go outside.

Some, that I feel have too long of scaffolds, are pruned even harder, like this I-258.

But I also started to experiment with minimal pruning this fall. I think I have 3-4 trees that I pruned minimally. For example, this CC.

I removed the terminal buds on it in August/early September, and it began to branch out quite nicely and fairly evenly on each scaffold. I will leave it as is. I don't think it will hit the lights before it can go outside next season.

My growing medium is a locally sourced pre-mixed organic potting mix heavy on worm castings and plant-based compost. The same stuff I use for my vegetables. Figs love it.

The balance... I don't know, I never thought about it. I like to keep things simple. I just to try to give my trees what I think they need - plenty of light, plenty of root space, good organic soil, and enough fertilizer and water.

 

[ktrain]

I would still have to say Etnas, at least here.
And yes Celeste varieties too.

Some green figs are heavy producers...but not as heavy as Etnas.

 

[Figgin' A]

An early start will be our best bet going forward I think.
Other factors on my mind are tree architecture and annual pruning. Obviously plant nutrition plays a part too. While some varieties can produce with heavy pruning. I feel all varieties could produce well as you said. But identifying the optimal tree training to achieve this is what I need to ascertain.
I am thinking a main trunk, several scaffolds, then fruiting branches off the scaffolds. Each year remove the fruiting branches, but leave one or two nodes of the most recent seasons growth ( as you would do for grapes) and these nodes to produce new fruiting branches. Obviously this is a theory, not anything I’ve tested yet.

For the DLI, is a node triggered to fruit by the 30 DLI? I have always wondered what is the exact factor or factors that stimulate fruiting at a node, as all nodes have the ability to fruit but only some do.

That's pretty much what I do as far as pruning. Frankly, I've never had a goal of pruning for max production. My highest priority is aesthetics, followed by height, as I want them not to reach my LED lights before they can go outside.

I don't think pruning itself is a huge factor for production. I think the most important factor is light. I know a grower whose fig tree produced very few figs each year. Frustrated, he gave it away. The tree began to produce loads of figs for the new owner. Turns out the tree was in a shady spot before and in full sun at the new place.

As far as DLI goes... perhaps, the more energy you give a gree the more fruit it will set? That certainly is my current assumption.

 

[Figgin' A]

You must make a lot of jam. Or have a freezer full of figs. Beautiful tree's.

Thank you. Yeah, too many figs last season, hence the reason why I reduced my herd by more than half this past season. I figure we only need about a dozen trees to feed the family. Less work for me too

 

[Figgin' A]

I don’t k is how he does it. The node spacing is awesome. Seems just enough to allow the figs to fully develop while keeping the tree as compact as it can be.

Lights, maybe? I do think that good quality, strong grow lights are the key.

 

[Figgin' A]

I suppose the raccoons aren't as bad in the west end ....

Don't jinx it for me, Joe

 

[GoodFriendMike]

Thank you. Yeah, too many figs last season, hence the reason why I reduced my herd by more than half this past season. I figure we only need about a dozen trees to feed the family. Less work for me too

I understand that. Looking at your tree's. You may only need two or three.

 

[Figgin' A]

You're starting all of those in a grow tent? Must be large?

I would love an. Overview of you head start setup when you are able. Lights, space, temps.... how you measure and control DLI.

'A tent' would be speaking very loosely... I have one in my basement and one in my garage. And a couple of make-shift 'tents' here and there where my wife would tolerate them. Last year I had a 'tent' in my living room but the lease got terminated last May. But, sure, I can provide the details.

 

[Gladstone1969]

Thank you. Yeah, too many figs last season, hence the reason why I reduced my herd by more than half this past season. I figure we only need about a dozen trees to feed the family. Less work for me too

Which dozen did you choose?

 

[TorontoJoe]

I know. I’m having a tough time choosing

 

[Gladstone1969]

Magnolia, or our Unknown Sicily
The last one is new to us “Central Virginia Long Black” but we call him Steve.

I heard that long black is resistant to squirrels and rodents. In fact, they avoid it, thus protecting your orchard. It doesn’t split or crack with rain and is active from spring heat until frost. It’s one of the very few that taste like chicken (savory) and should be cooked, rather than eaten fresh. It has two ostioles that are closed but can open at times. The only problem is it doesn’t root at all, so be prepared to pay big bucks!

 

[MFJFIGS]

Thank you. I prune mine pretty hard. Since I give my trees a long head start in grow tents, I need them to be compact enough before they go outside.

Some, that I feel have too long of scaffolds, are pruned even harder, like this I-258.

But I also started to experiment with minimal pruning this fall. I think I have 3-4 trees that I pruned minimally. For example, this CC.

I removed the terminal buds on it in August/early September, and it began to branch out quite nicely and fairly evenly on each scaffold. I will leave it as is. I don't think it will hit the lights before it can go outside next season.

My growing medium is a locally sourced pre-mixed organic potting mix heavy on worm castings and plant-based compost. The same stuff I use for my vegetables. Figs love it.

The balance... I don't know, I never thought about it. I like to keep things simple. I just to try to give my trees what I think they need - plenty of light, plenty of root space, good organic soil, and enough fertilizer and water.

Oak,
Do you seal the wood where you cut?
My I-258 has a 4-1/2 foot high single trunk below the lowest branch, and a top parapet that is quite large. I plan on cutting the main trunk at 30” above soil very early in March before I bring it out of dormancy. I know that will set it back but hope that a long enough season will allow it to grow and maybe ripen some fruits… what do you think?
I usually seal the wound with waterproof Tilebond… hopefully it will branch out near the top and not send new growth from below or near the soil line.

Your thoughts?

 

[MFJFIGS]

'A tent' would be speaking very loosely... I have one in my basement and one in my garage. And a couple of make-shift 'tents' here and there where my wife would tolerate them. Last year I had a 'tent' in my living room but the lease got terminated last May. But, sure, I can provide the details.

I am definitely showing this post to my clan at home.

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

I heard that long black is resistant to squirrels and rodents. In fact, they avoid it, thus protecting your orchard. It doesn’t split or crack with rain and is active from spring heat until frost. It’s one of the very few that taste like chicken (savory) and should be cooked, rather than eaten fresh. It has two ostioles that are closed but can open at times. The only problem is it doesn’t root at all, so be prepared to pay big bucks!

You clearly know this variety well.

 

[Figgin' A]

Which dozen did you choose?

Not yet... more like 3 dosen for now, but the long-term goal is a dozen. I am still testing various varieties.