Fig trees making zero or only a couple figs after 3 to 4 years.

Unlike the trees in the first two photos, this one loves to send out new trees from the ground.
It is almost 6 feet tall in its third year, has produced more vegetation than any of the other trees with no added nitrogen or pruning but has not produced a single ripe fig. However, it produced 4 tiny figs the last week of July, probably too late to ripen this year.
 

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This is the third year this tree has been in the ground.
It produced 3 ripe figs the second year while in the rooting pot but did not produce the first 2 years after planting into the ground.
I don't know what made it lean. Maybe a deer. I thought about staking it but never did.
At present there is a very large fig on this tree that is starting to ripen. (Photo to follow)
There are 2 others on the tree but are very small.
 

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These are the 4 largest of the 20 cuttings i started in June this year with which you have been assisting me in determining how to overwinter.

The cuttings were put into a quart jar of water on the windowsill until small bumps appeared where the future roots would grow. I then stuck them into a pot with MiracleGrow potting soil before roots appeared.

After completely neglecting them the entire month of June when they sat in nearly full forest shade as I traveled, I returned to find 4 or 5 nice leaves but growth had stopped as could be determined by the tightly closed terminal buds. To get them growing again, I added slow release fertilizer and they took off.

Thanks for all your input!!!
 
Here is the neglected fig tree whose 20 progeny I am betting the farm on to produce lots and lots of figs.

It is growing completely under the canopy of a large water oak and pecan tree, and wedged in between a house and shed where it never gets full direct sunlight.

Despite the complete neglect and lack of any full sun, it produced a delicious crop of ripe breba figs by the first week of June and has been producing a steady supply of ripe main crop good figs since at least the middle of July.
 

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Nice looking tree's, part of me wonders if they're not getting enough sun? Mine all died to the ground this year, and or I just put them in the ground after rooting them from cuttings, so I don't expect many figs this year. In my area, it happens to a lot of my friends where for two or three years they get great fig production then they get an off year, it happens so often I often wonder if that's the way it works in my area, a colder zone.

Personally, I think you'd benefit greatly if you do some research, figure out what type of fig does great in your area and get it and see if there's a difference--keep it in a pot for a while that way you can try different locations to test the sun theory I suspect. You'd also have complete control over the soil mix.
 
Woodlot said:
Here is the neglected fig tree whose 20 progeny I am betting the farm on to produce lots and lots of figs.

It is growing completely under the canopy of a large water oak and pecan tree, and wedged in between a house and shed where it never gets full direct sunlight.

Despite the complete neglect and lack of any full sun, it produced a delicious crop of ripe breba figs by the first week of June and has been producing a steady supply of ripe main crop good figs since at least the middle of July.
Click to expand...

Maybe the extra heat your buildings retain helps the fig produce fruit, in addition to being close to the house's foundation, more heat and possible mineral's leaching from the foundation into the surrounding soil.
 
Hi Rayray,

Sorry for the confusion. The large fig tree in the photo, the one wedged in between the house, shed and large tree is not on my property.

That tree is the one I decided to acquire cuttings from. I selected it for propagation because it had a substantial and delicious breba crop and a heavy main crop despite being completely neglected

I listened to several Youtube videos giving the good and bad for many fig tree varieties. I made a list of about ten varieties that seemed well suited to meet my objectives in North Georgia.

But I decided that I couldn't go very wrong by propagating the best performing trees that have been growing for decades within a few miles of my property, especially when I was receiving mixed reviews for the hardiness of known cultivars.

As for sun, all my in ground trees get between 6 and 9 hours direct and unimpeded sunlight per day. Is that sufficient?

I think getting a soil test from the University of Georgia is my next step. The ground may be deficient in just one mineral and it might take years to determine which it is.
 
Woodlot said:
Rayray,

Thanks for pointing out the possible advantages the fig tree wedged between buildings and trees may be getting.

Has me concerned because I won't be able to give those advantages to its progeny which will be growing on my property.
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From my experience, figs like structures. I have a few growing around my compost bin made out of old pallets that I covered in black landscaping cloth, they love it. I planted the figs around it because the wife was not happy about the large pallets in the yard lol.

6 to 9 hours of direct sunlight is good.
 
The old timers of generations now gone who lived in my part of North Georgia, may their souls rest in peace, always planted fig trees on the east side of structures so they get morning sun but are protected from the hot late afternoon sun.
I think that practice is being forgotten as I see more and more fig trees planted in the open.

Unfortunately, though I have three structures here, the east sides are occupied with larger trees so I've had to compromise by planting to the southeast sides of forested areas.
 
Woodlot said:
The old timers of generations now gone who lived in my part of North Georgia, may their souls rest in peace, always planted fig trees on the east side of structures so they get morning sun but are protected from the hot late afternoon sun.
I think that practice is being forgotten as I see more and more fig trees planted in the open.

Unfortunately, though I have three structures here, the east sides are occupied with larger trees so I've had to compromise by planting to the southeast sides of forested areas.
Click to expand...
Good point by utilizing planting location based on location and climate conditions.

Here in the mid-Atlantic and Northeast, old timers would plant on the south side of house or structures to protect against northern winds of Winter and create a favorable microclimate. Many still do, including myself.
 
Root circling. Check for root circling.

I've a bunch inground that only fruit where branches hang over sidewalk concrete. I'm starting to wonder if it's the heat retention or reflective ability or both. Something to that...
 
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