Fertigation

What do you mean by "inline" ?
I found some systems where you just attach it at the time of fertilization and then you take it off when not using it. I want one that's permanently attached but can be used actively even if I'm not actively fertilizing. Like, the fertilizing occurs only when I add what I want added.
 
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I use an inline EZ Flo unit. I like it, but note that I only use organic, natural fertilizers in it, so have never checked it for accuracy which may matter if you use chemical fertilizers.

I have been drawn to those units that you can use to siphon from a bucket of fertilizer, and I think those would be easier for fertilizing on demand and in the moment. But I was used to the EZ Flo system and so just went with that. It does work well for my needs, but also needs to be removed or otherwise set up for winter if you get below 32° regularly. I did mine with a removable bypass to make it easier.
 
I found some systems where you just attach it at the time of fertilization and then you take it off when not using it. I want one that's permanently attached but can be used actively even if I'm not actively fertilizing. Like, the fertilizing occurs only when I add what I want added.
Dosatron or Mixrite. Permanent install, (for the season) Precision dosing with whatever volume or pressure is running thru it. Concentrate Mixing is very easy using the online calculator at Dosatron.com I use the Dosatron DF25f and love it!!! I'm applying fertilizer very time my trees are irrigated. The dose varies with the season. If you dont want to dose fertilizer you can plumb in a bypass, And if you want to apply something different, just mix a different concentrate and move the pickup tube.
 
@DCallahan I have three 4 zone timers - so if I do go down this route. Would I need 3 or 12 of them ?

To be precise, do you know if they can handle constant pressure or if they need to be after the timer?
Just one would be needed, its a plumbing design issue, not dependent on the Doser design.
They are designed to be plumbed in on constant pressure and they adapt the dosing volume with the volume of water flowing through it. So say one zone only flows 1 gph and another zone flows 100 gph, they will both receive the same concentration, because it self -modulates . They are powered by the water flowing through them.
We had a discussion on here last season about fertigation and setup design.
 
Just one would be needed, its a plumbing design issue, not dependent on the Doser design.
They are designed to be plumbed in on constant pressure and they adapt the dosing volume with the volume of water flowing through it. So say one zone only flows 1 gph and another zone flows 100 gph, they will both receive the same concentration, because it self -modulates . They are powered by the water flowing through them.
We had a discussion on here last season about fertigation and setup design.
Thanks very helpful!
 
How many trees/plants or GPH do you need? What's the water pressure you're working with? Depending on the volume, pressure, and flow, there's a number of recommendations.
I have 200+ trees on one line with drip tree rings, running through a venturi system that pulls from a 250g tank. I have the inlet pressure to make this work (95psi). I tried both the EZ Flo (too small) and a pump injection like a dosatron (hard to dial in and expensive). The venturi is on a bypass so I can turn the fert on or off as needed. Snagged a 250g tank from FB marketplace for about $60. All in the setup cost about $250, and I fill up the tank once a month or so with a $60 bag of Peter's 20/20/20.
 
This is one of three 40 gallon fertigation tanks at our home. This one serves the figs and the majority of fruiting plants, with the exception of acid loving blueberries, Plinea, etc.

Our municipal water supply has pH 8.1. In this tank, I mix N-pHuric acidifier with water solubles to produce 15-5-10 US NPK at 100 ppm (total) with pH ≈ 6.3.

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I just use the one I picked up at drip depot.
I have 2 sizes, but ther large one is too big for my current collection.

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