Everyone should learn to graft (esp newbs)

IAK

Active member
To mostly the new people who are rooting a boatload of cuttings, I strongly encourage you to graft. For so many reasons:

1. Save space. Having a fewer number of pots is much easier to move, store, protect/heat. If you are shuffling and keeping them in a reasonably protected space you don't have to worry about them freezing. I think most potted trees dying during winter is simply because there are so many of them, the owners could not take care of them well. A large tarp over a a huge pile of pots outside is far different than an insulated/heated structure. It’s also hard to water trees in a giant mound of pots in the winter.

2. Accelerate trialing and culling. Unless you are collecting for collecting sake, you are like most in that you are trying all these different varieties to see how they do in your area, will they ripen, do you like the taste. A graft on mature rootstock will accelerate your evaluation process. You don't have to wait 3-5 years to see how that fig will be for you. You can find out within a year or 2. If you really like it, air layer it or root a cutting. Hate it, graft over with a new variety in the spring.

3. Maximize your expensive cuttings. I like to root 3 nodes. 1 above, 2 under. If I receive a cutting with more nodes I will whip/tongue, chip bud, cleft, etc the rest of the material. That also means I will wait to root cuttings until late winter or if you headstart your trees wait until they are starting to bud out before using them as donors.

4. Boost growth and fruiting potential of slow growing varieties (I’m looking at you, BM!) I am impatient. I want results for my time, effort, money and you should too.

Problems people run into.

1. This is their first year doing figs of any kind so no donor trees. Take this year to root out a bunch of strong rootstock. For example, Desert King, or brown turkey, etc. You can literally get those for free. See if any family members, friends, or neighbors will let you graft onto their existing trees as well.

2. Scared of cutting themselves with a grafting knife. There are grafting tools that uou can use to avoid cutting yourself. You will be limited to pretty much a cleft graft but that is still better than nothing. @MJFIGS has a video on his channel where he uses a tool. @figologist I did happen to notice the blood on your chip bud graft video. I also cut myself the first time I did that one, lol.

3. Don’t know how to get started. On Youtube there is a channel by JSacadura. To date, the best filmed and explained plant propagation channel I have see. He also has a video on the fig wasp with amazing footage. In addition, he is very calming like Bob Ross but with plants.

I am not trying to sound like a grafting master. In fact, I’m far from it, but still experience a lot of success grafting. Once I got the hang of it, my success rate far surpassed my rooting success. There are a bunch of times when a cutting failed but a graft from the cutting took. It saved me a whole bunch of money and a whole years time. Who wants to wait until a whole year to try and buy a cutting again? Anyways, here’s to hoping people will try grafting this year.
 
I'm in that #1 boat right now with no trees big enough to graft onto. But with how many cuttings I've gotten already this season, I can absolutely see the wisdom of growing out a few trees specifically with the intent to graft onto them - I even have a few unknowns I'm doing just that with, so hopefully once they grow out I'll be able to try my hand at grafting! Thank you for the excellent resources for learning. ^_^
 
I grafted pawpaw trees last year and will again next spring. Your advice sounds good to me. The rush you get from watching a graft take and grow is equal to the enjoyment of watching a fig cutting take root and grow.

Off now to find some Brown Turkey cuttings...
 
I love your post and am very excited to learn to grafting when my trees are a little older.

In the meantime, I started some Hardy Chicago to use as rootstock, but I also have access to some very healthy Negrone, celeste, lsu purple, and marseilles that I can get great cuttings for only $2 each. (And if anyone is in the PA/NJ area wants any, lmk.)

Which variety would all of you grafters out there recommend to use as the best rootstock?
 
I love your post and am very excited to learn to grafting when my trees are a little older.

In the meantime, I started some Hardy Chicago to use as rootstock, but I also have access to some very healthy Negrone, celeste, lsu purple, and marseilles that I can get great cuttings for only $2 each. (And if anyone is in the PA/NJ area wants any, lmk.)

Which variety would all of you grafters out there recommend to use as the best rootstock?
No experience myself, but have heard lsu purple makes good rootstock
 
To mostly the new people who are rooting a boatload of cuttings, I strongly encourage you to graft. For so many reasons:

1. Save space. Having a fewer number of pots is much easier to move, store, protect/heat. If you are shuffling and keeping them in a reasonably protected space you don't have to worry about them freezing. I think most potted trees dying during winter is simply because there are so many of them, the owners could not take care of them well. A large tarp over a a huge pile of pots outside is far different than an insulated/heated structure. It’s also hard to water trees in a giant mound of pots in the winter.

2. Accelerate trialing and culling. Unless you are collecting for collecting sake, you are like most in that you are trying all these different varieties to see how they do in your area, will they ripen, do you like the taste. A graft on mature rootstock will accelerate your evaluation process. You don't have to wait 3-5 years to see how that fig will be for you. You can find out within a year or 2. If you really like it, air layer it or root a cutting. Hate it, graft over with a new variety in the spring.

3. Maximize your expensive cuttings. I like to root 3 nodes. 1 above, 2 under. If I receive a cutting with more nodes I will whip/tongue, chip bud, cleft, etc the rest of the material. That also means I will wait to root cuttings until late winter or if you headstart your trees wait until they are starting to bud out before using them as donors.

4. Boost growth and fruiting potential of slow growing varieties (I’m looking at you, BM!) I am impatient. I want results for my time, effort, money and you should too.

Problems people run into.

1. This is their first year doing figs of any kind so no donor trees. Take this year to root out a bunch of strong rootstock. For example, Desert King, or brown turkey, etc. You can literally get those for free. See if any family members, friends, or neighbors will let you graft onto their existing trees as well.

2. Scared of cutting themselves with a grafting knife. There are grafting tools that uou can use to avoid cutting yourself. You will be limited to pretty much a cleft graft but that is still better than nothing. @MJFIGS has a video on his channel where he uses a tool. @figologist I did happen to notice the blood on your chip bud graft video. I also cut myself the first time I did that one, lol.

3. Don’t know how to get started. On Youtube there is a channel by JSacadura. To date, the best filmed and explained plant propagation channel I have see. He also has a video on the fig wasp with amazing footage. In addition, he is very calming like Bob Ross but with plants.

I am not trying to sound like a grafting master. In fact, I’m far from it, but still experience a lot of success grafting. Once I got the hang of it, my success rate far surpassed my rooting success. There are a bunch of times when a cutting failed but a graft from the cutting took. It saved me a whole bunch of money and a whole years time. Who wants to wait until a whole year to try and buy a cutting again? Anyways, here’s to hoping people will try grafting this year.
I'll have you know that the bloody graft was successful far before the non-bloody graft! I RECOMMEND BLOOD FOR ALL GRAFTS
 
All things I’ve learned this year:

MBVS and campaniere makes good rootstock.

Grafting in the fall is a recipe for disaster if you’re still doing it outdoors, if you have a grow room, this shouldn’t be an issue.

Learn t-bud also.

It also works better if the rootstock is awake when you graft and the temperatures outside are warm, not getting cold overnight.

Don’t overwater the rootstock with the grafts, it will flood it.

Keep it wrapped with tin foil

Get yourself some budding rubbers and parafilm.

A bread sack tie works just as well as budding rubbers they just need to be removed sooner.
 
I'm in that #1 boat right now with no trees big enough to graft onto. But with how many cuttings I've gotten already this season, I can absolutely see the wisdom of growing out a few trees specifically with the intent to graft onto them - I even have a few unknowns I'm doing just that with, so hopefully once they grow out I'll be able to try my hand at grafting! Thank you for the excellent resources for learning. ^_^
What I did in the beginning when I didn't have good rootstocks. I grafted on brown turkey cuttings, then I rooted the brown turkey. CA brown turkey roots really easily. I got really good success rate doing that. It doesn't help with limiting number of pots, but it helps with your propagation odds, especially for high value varieties.
 
I like JSacadura's videos and watch some multiple times.

Get a pair of cut resistant gloves when you shop for a grafting knife (a basic one is usually good for most situations). There are techniques to help you avoid cutting yourself but spending a few extra seconds putting the gloves on would improve the odds much further.

I did my first grafts in my first season, first with a tool, which I stopped using after 3 times. The grafting tool is rather limited and I ended up using a kitchen paring knife instead. And since I didn't have any rootstock, I graft the scion on another cutting, which I don't recommend for beginners. Unless you are confident with your rooting skills, grafting on cuttings need a bit of experience, in addition to space and time to nurture the graft in winter.
 
Cut resistant gloves are an excellent idea, I have enough scars on my hands from avoidable injuries/minor short circuits where my hands misinterpreted my brain's directions or one had a slight processing delay. 😅
 
I love your post and am very excited to learn to grafting when my trees are a little older.

In the meantime, I started some Hardy Chicago to use as rootstock, but I also have access to some very healthy Negrone, celeste, lsu purple, and marseilles that I can get great cuttings for only $2 each. (And if anyone is in the PA/NJ area wants any, lmk.)

Which variety would all of you grafters out there recommend to use as the best rootstock?
Literally anything as long as it is vigorous. I just mentioned DK and Brown Turkey because they usually are cheap/almost free, and grow well in cooler temps if that matters to you. My best donor was a CLBC in a 20 gallon SIP. That thing grew anything like it was on steroids. Most established collectors will use a cull for mature rootstock. Better it serve a purpose vs going into the compost heap unless you just don't have the room for another pot.
 
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