Crazy prices out there on cuttings, got to see this.

Figgin' A said:
This IS a plain Jane NDB; it looks identical to Harvey's and many others I've seen online. Mine are 'flat' too. There is nothing about his fig that I see that makes it rare or different from a 'plain Jane NDB'. Just because someone puts 'rare' in the name, it does not necessarily make it rare. It's misleading. Unethical. Accepting crap like that, letting it happen, justifying, excusing and rationalizing it, is what's wrong with this hobby.
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My sarcasm went undetected. I’m in agreement with you.
 
Kompakfigs said:
Single cutting is only $17 total. Seller has (416) 5 star reviews on figbid.
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You are missing my point. The point is that, in my opinion, positioning your product as something it's not to make a sale, regardless of what kind of $$$ are involved, is unethical. Misleading. Wrong. Creates unnecessary hype and leads to multiple versions of the exact same thing. But I feel like I will never win this argument. Nor should I. Who am I, after all, to stand in the way of those who want to generously fund their hobby and keep getting excited by all the 'new' varieties and 'super strains' that keep popping up left and right?
 
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rNexus said:
There's nothing wrong with money.
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Money is the devil. It makes people do terrible things to get it. You trade away hours of your life to get it. People literally work themselves to death to achieve "enough" but inevitably there will never be enough. The most capable, self sufficient salt of the earth people have no money while the most evil, corrupt, unethical, immoral people have lots of money. Good luck buying your way into heaven.

Money can't buy time or good health or a clean conscience.
 
Bofig said:
I’ve found when you buy cuttings there is a huge range in quality. 10 bucks can get you a 10 inch sharpie thickness or down to a 5-6 inch twig. The health range can be anywhere from just cut never seen a frost to a stick that sat in a fridge for 6 months rotting but washed right before shipping or even one that the grower lets it “get hit with a few frosts for DoRmAnCy” and they have spots of dead material on the cutting.

My cuttings I hope to have top quality as that’s what I expect when purchasing. I shoot for 3/8 to 3/4 inches and roughly 8-10 inch for cuttings to ship out. Never let them get frosted because we have early frosts that hit while trees are still actively growing sometimes.

Be careful what you buy because you may spend a fortune and get garbage or you can spend almost nothing and get the most beautiful cuttings.
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Would you advertise your cuttings as "green" cuttings since you cut them before dormancy? It would only be fair to your customers that intent to store til late winter to root or even save till spring for grafting
 
Figgin' A said:
You are missing my point. The point is that, in my opinion, positioning your product as something it's not to make a sale, regardless of what kind of $$$ are involved, is unethical. Misleading. Wrong. Creates unnecessary hype and leads to multiple versions of the exact same thing. But I feel like I will never win this argument. Nor should I. Who am I, after all, to stand in the way of those who want to generously fund their hobby and keep getting excited by all the 'new' varieties and 'super strains' that keep popping up left and right?
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I understand your point.
 
DCallahan said:
Would you advertise your cuttings as "green" cuttings since you cut them before dormancy? It would only be fair to your customers that intent to store til late winter to root or even save till spring for grafting
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My listing says my cuttings are going dormant now but won’t be fully “dormant” ever although the leaves will be stripped off when I have to put into storage. The difference between cutting today or mid November would be leaves only. “Green” cuttings are just that, they are green here’s a photo of what I shipped out today. Summer cuttings that are lignified do exactly the same thing dormant or not. The idea that sap flow has to stop in mid winter is nonsense. My trees in January still have sap flow in my storage but they are fast asleep. I’ve cut green cuttings washed and stored for over six months in the crisper drawer without issues.
 

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Trees that evolved to suck the energy out of there leaves and drop them as they go dormant hold more energy in there cuttings after this leaf fall than cuttings that need to have there leaves striped by hand to make a cutting . THAT BEING SAID fig cuttings can be viable at almost any stage of life to some degree ,it is the % of succses that comes after transit and storage by less than expert propigators that spells the deffinition of quality cuttings .Folks that buy cuttings should be given as much info on the timing ,preporation and storage history of the cuttings they are about to buy from the seller . Just a few random thoughts on fig cuttings , not dirrected at any one in particulare could rambell on about best cutting practices all night long .
 
You’re not wrong but also the sap flow doesn’t stop completely but it gets thicker with less water and more latex when it’s colder and will act as an antifreeze rather than freeze/damage the cutting. My trees can be dormant for months but when cut the sap will drip out, slowly but still there. Every listing I put on figbid explains in great detail what I’m selling and I avoid buying from listings that just state “Fresh cuttings from (variety)”. Scrubbing and letting the cuttings air dry completely will go a long ways. I’ve had so much better results early in the season as opposed to cuttings later in the season. One thing to remember though is location of seller. We have first frost of October 5 in Iowa where it’s colder much earlier than many states. My trees are rapidly losing leaves as we talk. The ends of branches are about all that is hanging on to the leaves for many trees.
 
We barely get 3 months dormancy in Berkeley CA. I probably should wash every cutting I give out for free. Time constraints will not allow me to do this. I do air dry a couple of times after cutting so the latex sap doesn't ruin the cuttings in shipment. I will make an attempt to give a hydrogen peroxide bath, but I certainly recommend a bleach or hydrogen peroxide bath and scrub to any cutting you are going to propagate. Last year I had over a thousand cuttings. To scrub every cutting down would have made it an impossible task to mail out to y'all.
 
SOME years here in SANTA BARBARA we get no frost at all ! LAST year my cherry tomato lived all winter and grew and produced again this spring/summer. jan .cuttings bleed sap ,i take cuttings and priority mail whithin a day or two .FOLKS have good results with my cuttings as they are loaded and raring to go when recived ! MAKE SHURE NO SCALE ,WIPE OFF BIRD poop BUT DO NOT STERILIZE ,Most folks stick them in non sterale poting soil full of mold spores, fungus,bacteria virus and other goodies !! anyway .
 
Figgin' A said:
You don't need me if it's truly a Super Smith... :) The reality is, there isn't a Super Smith. It's all about how you grow it.
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It is easier to convince people of the Super quality cuttings they pay extra for would turn into successful trees & fruits than asking them to read through all the details they need to pay attention to in order to nurture the cuttings into productive mature trees.
 
Figless said:
We barely get 3 months dormancy in Berkeley CA. I probably should wash every cutting I give out for free. Time constraints will not allow me to do this. I do air dry a couple of times after cutting so the latex sap doesn't ruin the cuttings in shipment. I will make an attempt to give a hydrogen peroxide bath, but I certainly recommend a bleach or hydrogen peroxide bath and scrub to any cutting you are going to propagate. Last year I had over a thousand cuttings. To scrub every cutting down would have made it an impossible task to mail out to y'all.
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Fig Gazer said:
SOME years here in SANTA BARBARA we get no frost at all ! LAST year my cherry tomato lived all winter and grew and produced again this spring/summer. jan .cuttings bleed sap ,i take cuttings and priority mail whithin a day or two .FOLKS have good results with my cuttings as they are loaded and raring to go when recived ! MAKE SHURE NO SCALE ,WIPE OFF BIRD poop BUT DO NOT STERILIZE ,Most folks stick them in non sterale poting soil full of mold spores, fungus,bacteria virus and other goodies !! anyway .
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I often tell the senders NOT to wash the cuttings, nor sealing the ends for me and definitely don't wrap them in damp paper towels or even saran wrap. It wastes their time and can make matter worse under some conditions. Most of these are freshly cut so they can be high in moisture. Just lightly wrap them in paper (to help soak up the sap/moisture) in a ziploc would easily survive the transit.

Upon arrival, I clean, disinfect, dry them for storage, or often root them right away(for indoor, winter rooting)

In Spring, I stick uncleaned cuttings outside in whatever soil have around and keep them under shade.
 
grasshopper said:
It is easier to convince people of the Super quality cuttings they pay extra for would turn into successful trees & fruits than asking them to read through all the details they need to pay attention to in order to nurture the cuttings into productive mature trees.
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Yep. Path of least resistance.
 
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