Discussion: Dormant vs Non Dormant Rooting

rNexus

Well-known member
Let's have a discussion about Dormant vs Non Dormant Fig cuttings. Pros and Cons of each.

First question. Does Excessive sap inside the cutting lead to more rot? Is the dormant cutting denser because the sap has gone back down to roots and some of the plant cells have reduced in volume?
 
I wanted to see how rooting non-dormant cuttings indoors and in the winter, compared to dormant cuttings. In Oct and Nov, I obtained a total of nearly 100 "green" and mostly lignified cuttings from a generous forum member who was going to discard them after pruning his trees that were blocking his sidewalk or growing over his fence. I had never tried rooting non-dormant cuttings indoors, so I thought any success was better than just discarding the cuttings.

Results: Nearly 100% of the cuttings have rooted and shown green growth. Rooting occurred much faster and more easily than when I have used dormant cuttings in the past. It wasn't just a single variety either, but rather ten types.

Any of these green cuttings which survive through the winter will be given away on the forum to active members.

Cons: Non-dormant cuttings have to be rooted quickly after harvest. They will likely not do well if stored for a lengthy period of time. Maybe storage time and subsequent rooting success can be explored in another trial next Oct/Nov.
 
Yea I think a cutting that is awake is in growth mode and, from past experience and intuition, roots faster. They key is that they should be dignified. Green cuttings are flimsy and a hit or miss (they can root fast or rot fast, or they dry fast the part exposed to air).
 
I wanted to see how rooting non-dormant cuttings indoors and in the winter, compared to dormant cuttings. In Oct and Nov, I obtained a total of nearly 100 "green" and mostly lignified cuttings from a generous forum member who was going to discard them after pruning his trees that were blocking his sidewalk or growing over his fence. I had never tried rooting non-dormant cuttings indoors, so I thought any success was better than just discarding the cuttings.

Results: Nearly 100% of the cuttings have rooted and shown green growth. Rooting occurred much faster and more easily than when I have used dormant cuttings in the past. It wasn't just a single variety either, but rather ten types.

Any of these green cuttings which survive through the winter will be given away on the forum to active members.

Cons: Non-dormant cuttings have to be rooted quickly after harvest. They will likely not do well if stored for a lengthy period of time. Maybe storage time and subsequent rooting success can be explored in another trial next Oct/Nov.
DITTO.... No really, if I were to post a comment it would be exactly this.
 
A lot of success with cuttings rooting is about how hydrated the cutting is. When it isn’t dormant it still has sap flow and so is hydrated. Because of that, they usually root better than a dormant cutting which is not as hydrated or fed.
 
Non-dormant cutting's root faster. The only downside is they do not store well.
Dormant cutting's root slower which means more time to rot as well. The good thing is. They store very well and can be rooted month's later.

Interesting discussion. I have experienced this as well. On those occasions I have come across my own finds, it's normally in a location and time of year when the trees are wide awake. Once clipped the clock is ticking. I think I've gone up to 4 weeks before starting to root them. I don't know how long one could safely store a non-dormant cutting without pushing ones luck.

Two years ago I left a big garbage bag full of dormant Etna cuttings in my garage and due to being otherwise busy and general procrastination, they spent the entire winter in there and it wasn't until well into the new season when it was getting warm that I decided it was a waste and stuck them all in communal 5-gallon pots. Many of them rooted very well despite much neglect.
 
Interesting discussion. I have experienced this as well. On those occasions I have come across my own finds, it's normally in a location and time of year when the trees are wide awake. Once clipped the clock is ticking. I think I've gone up to 4 weeks before starting to root them. I don't know how long one could safely store a non-dormant cutting without pushing ones luck.

Two years ago I left a big garbage bag full of dormant Etna cuttings in my garage and due to being otherwise busy and general procrastination, they spent the entire winter in there and it wasn't until well into the new season when it was getting warm that I decided it was a waste and stuck them all in communal 5-gallon pots. Many of them rooted very well despite much neglect.
They seem to root better when we toss them aside.
The more we try the more we fail.
Sometimes neglect is best.
That is why I switched back to the very basic's this year.
Minus the hormone experiment.
All others shall be coco moistened with plain water.
No heat pad. No Myco. Just coco, water and light.
Working well so far. :)
 
Good discussion,

I don't do a whole lot of non dormant, but they do root faster.
Even started trying my hand at green wood tips...you want a challenge there you go.
I think I have it down now.

I don't really have a preference, it's just timing I suppose.
 
We have decent luck with greenwood tips as long as the cutting is firm. We leave a part of one leaf on, tent them to keep up the humidity, and keep them in shade.
 
A lot of success with cuttings rooting is about how hydrated the cutting is. When it isn’t dormant it still has sap flow and so is hydrated. Because of that, they usually root better than a dormant cutting which is not as hydrated or fed.
That makes sense. If there isn't as much moisture in the cuttings, the new roots have to rely more on water absorption from the environment to survive. But excess water in the environment can cause rot faster. But because there is less water inside a dormant cutting, it is more prone to dry out and die.

Thanks for the replies everyone. It's helped clarify a path forward for me. Fully lignified non dormant cuttings seems like the way to go. Preferably the previous years growth so it is extra dense to resist rot, has more energy stored and has plenty of moisture inside to sustain it while rooting.

I'm going to start rooting cuttings for my nursery in mid May - early June. This way it can be done 'outside' while it's nice and warm and then the cuttings can have the whole summer to grow well and toughen up.
 
What are everyone’s thoughts on rooting new wood vs older wood cuttings? Any benefit or detriment in rooting older wood?
 
Older wood takes longer to root. But it can be done. Mike Kincaid on you tube rooted a 6” diameter fig log. It took I think over 6 month we to root. If we want older bigger diameters we air layer.
 
Something not yet talked about here is vegetative vs reproductive cuttings.
Since most fig folks grow to produce figs, most pruning is done to remove the last years fruiting wood. But my experience is that vegetative cuttings give the most vigorous initial growth.
 
Something not yet talked about here is vegetative vs reproductive cuttings.
Since most fig folks grow to produce figs, most pruning is done to remove the last years fruiting wood. But my experience is that vegetative cuttings give the most vigorous initial growth.
Have you had experience storing them for any length of time?
 
By accident I have yes. We took a bunch of cuttings before a big cold snap I forgot a bag stored in a shed. They were just in a plastic bag nothing else if I remember. In a box. Many more than I would have expected survived. I found them in spring. But I would rate it as variable at best for doing repeatedly. One factor I noticed was the healthier the cutting the longer it lasted. And the more dormant the better. I would do it with material I had myself for sure but I would be nervous if it was expensive and limited. One 50$ cutting I don’t think I’d risk. Pruning a tree and saving it definitely.
 
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