Long shot for Ondata

TheInvertedFlower said:
Interesting reading everyone’s experiences.

I’m currently 0/4 on Ondata - three different sources. My overall rooting rate this season (since I started Treepot-pop) is ~90%, so this one is clearly the outlier.

Three cuttings are still viable though. One budded without roots.

Curious - is this typical for Ondata or just random variance
Click to expand...
Definitely interesting. I’m roughly 85% successful. The ones that weren’t successful and were still viable I threw them in a cup of water to see if I could get roots that way a lot of of them have the white bumps right now and have started to leaf out. I just don’t know when is a good time to introduce him to soil.
 
AntonioFiggy said:
Definitely interesting. I’m roughly 85% successful. The ones that weren’t successful and were still viable I threw them in a cup of water to see if I could get roots that way a lot of of them have the white bumps right now and have started to leaf out. I just don’t know when is a good time to introduce him to soil.
Click to expand...
Best time is when they have those white bumps, it’ll be your easiest transition to soil. If you wait too long they’ll developed long fragile roots and won’t adapt to the soil well at that point or break off 🥲
 
BNaula1 said:
Best time is when they have those white bumps, it’ll be your easiest transition to soil. If you wait too long they’ll developed long fragile roots and won’t adapt to the soil well at that point or break off 🥲
Click to expand...
Ok alright… just in a tree pot or fig pop
 
TheInvertedFlower said:
Interesting reading everyone’s experiences.

I’m currently 0/4 on Ondata - three different sources. My overall rooting rate this season (since I started Treepot-pop) is ~90%, so this one is clearly the outlier.

Three cuttings are still viable though. One budded without roots.

Curious - is this typical for Ondata or just random variance
Click to expand...

My first year rooting Ondata and from only one source. 1 log in a bagged treepot, 1 sharpie thickness in a fig pop, and 1 single node in a plant cell, all rooted ~ 2.5-3 week mark, great root growth. Already growing the huge leaves it known for. The fig pop is actually problematic because it actually shades out any fig pops next to it. This is a batch of 2 cuttings from inground tree from EC757 on Figbid. Traces back to Ross if that helps with sourcing.

IMG_2214.jpegIMG_2215.jpeg
 
IAK said:
My first year rooting Ondata and from only one source. 1 log in a bagged treepot, 1 sharpie thickness in a fig pop, and 1 single node in a plant cell, all rooted ~ 2.5-3 week mark, great root growth. Already growing the huge leaves it known for. The fig pop is actually problematic because it actually shades out any fig pops next to it. This is a batch of 2 cuttings from inground tree from EC757 on Figbid. Traces back to Ross if that helps with sourcing.

View attachment 19398View attachment 19399
Click to expand...
Wow I need to source from him or you if none of my 4 cuttings from 3 different very well known collectors root ! Thanks for sharing.

Seems like another one where source makes all the difference in rooting vigor !
 
IAK said:
My first year rooting Ondata and from only one source. 1 log in a bagged treepot, 1 sharpie thickness in a fig pop, and 1 single node in a plant cell, all rooted ~ 2.5-3 week mark, great root growth. Already growing the huge leaves it known for. The fig pop is actually problematic because it actually shades out any fig pops next to it. This is a batch of 2 cuttings from inground tree from EC757 on Figbid. Traces back to Ross if that helps with sourcing.

View attachment 19398View attachment 19399
Click to expand...
Really awesome!
 
TheInvertedFlower said:
Wow I need to source from him or you if none of my 4 cuttings from 3 different very well known collectors root ! Thanks for sharing.

Seems like another one where source makes all the difference in rooting vigor !
Click to expand...

We shall see. As I can personally attest, plant vigor doesn’t always correlate with fruit production (I’M TALKIN’ ABOUT YOU, CLBC!!!). But it is really difficult to get fruit when your sticks don’t root either.
 
IAK said:
My first year rooting Ondata and from only one source. 1 log in a bagged treepot, 1 sharpie thickness in a fig pop, and 1 single node in a plant cell, all rooted ~ 2.5-3 week mark, great root growth. Already growing the huge leaves it known for. The fig pop is actually problematic because it actually shades out any fig pops next to it. This is a batch of 2 cuttings from inground tree from EC757 on Figbid. Traces back to Ross if that helps with sourcing.

View attachment 19398View attachment 19399
Click to expand...
Wow. That's awesome!!
 
DELFIG said:
Yes Figfather it's true, please join me in prayer as I give its the last rites. I gave it all the respect I could possibly muster, I treated it like royalty really, as it is likely the most sought after cutting I have ever owned. It was planted Dec 13th (unlucky date maybe?) in Promix HP, I even added a little extra perlite. Moist not wet soil consistency. Cutting was treated with a 10:1 water to hydrogen peroxide solution prior to being soaked overnight in clean tap water. Cutting was scored and dipped in rooting powder. Then wrapped in parafilm and buried to the soil line in a 4x4x9 container. And placed on a heat matt set at 75 F under grow lights.....I know your stock is depleted, however, if MJFigs didn't take all his Ondata cuttings to Italy, I would have tried to source new ones from him....a missed opportunity, I guess..... :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
I strongly recommend not wrapping you're cuttings down to the soil level line. You really only need to wrap the first half inch to keep it from dehydrating. Going all the way to the soil line is not helpful, and sadly was one of my first mistakes. parafilm m, and buddy tape wrap just the very top to lock in moisture.
 
FWIW.... I got this idea from @RichardK. When rooting cuttings outdoors in summer, I bury them completely. Vertically, and right down to the soil line. It avoids the need for parafilm. The cutting doesn't dehydrate and it's very low maintenance. I also do this with the triple mix that I've been talking about. No fancy, gritty mix. The shoots come up out of the soil as suckers. This is the only way I root outdoors now.

I don't know if it's ideal for everyone... but I would recommend trying it with some lower cost cuttings just to understand how they do like this
 
Figless said:
I strongly recommend not wrapping you're cuttings down to the soil level line. You really only need to wrap the first half inch to keep it from dehydrating. Going all the way to the soil line is not helpful, and sadly was one of my first mistakes. parafilm m, and buddy tape wrap just the very top to lock in moisture.
Click to expand...
I agree I have learned that if I wrap all of the exposed cutting I tend to get mold underneath the parafilm.
 
TorontoJoe said:
FWIW.... I got this idea from @RichardK. When rooting cuttings outdoors in summer, I bury them completely. Vertically, and right down to the soil line. It avoids the need for parafilm. The cutting doesn't dehydrate and it's very low maintenance. I also do this with the triple mix that I've been talking about. No fancy, gritty mix. The shoots come up out of the soil as suckers. This is the only way I root outdoors now.

I don't know if it's ideal for everyone... but I would recommend trying it with some lower cost cuttings just to understand how they do like this
Click to expand...
I have always wanted to copy a Spanish technique I saw on YouTube where they dug a 1 to 2 foot trench and they just broke up long branches, covered with the soil and watered deeply. After the suckers surfaced they simply cut and leave what they wanted.
 
Figless said:
I strongly recommend not wrapping you're cuttings down to the soil level line. You really only need to wrap the first half inch to keep it from dehydrating. Going all the way to the soil line is not helpful, and sadly was one of my first mistakes. parafilm m, and buddy tape wrap just the very top to lock in moisture.
Click to expand...
That's interesting....I recall reading how wrapping it enables cutting to retain moisture and yet the parafilm allows the cutting to breathe.
 
DELFIG said:
That's interesting....I recall reading how wrapping it enables cutting to retain moisture and yet the parafilm allows the cutting to breathe.
Click to expand...

I agree that wrapping retains moisture., but a little goes a long way. Also , insect pests likes spider mites or fig bud mites become absolutely untreatable with parafilm m wraps that go down to far. @RosyPosy has method she recommends where she uses a indoor latex paint to seal the very tops of cuttings. this protects , the cuttings from water rot or sun exposure during the first year.
 
IAK said:
My first year rooting Ondata and from only one source. 1 log in a bagged treepot, 1 sharpie thickness in a fig pop, and 1 single node in a plant cell, all rooted ~ 2.5-3 week mark, great root growth. Already growing the huge leaves it known for. The fig pop is actually problematic because it actually shades out any fig pops next to it. This is a batch of 2 cuttings from inground tree from EC757 on Figbid. Traces back to Ross if that helps with sourcing.

View attachment 19398View attachment 19399
Click to expand...
That's a great looking figs pop
 
  • Like
Reactions: IAK
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top