Grafting options in Zone 7b

grasshopper said:
You don't have to stump cut the tree but cut it low enough to make your protection easier. It is easier to protect a 2-3 ft tree than a 6 ft+ one.

I have the additional sunlight factor to consider when the tree is too close to the fence or any structure.
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I realize that - my comment was based on @snarfing post “general wisdom is to bury the graft”
 
This might have been answered but when is that best time to graft? I have some plants that’s dormant in my basement can I graft to them right now or should I wait to the summer?
 
MOFIGS said:
This might have been answered but when is that best time to graft? I have some plants that’s dormant in my basement can I graft to them right now or should I wait to the summer?
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Spring is the best time to graft as sap starts flowing but not gushing.

You can graft now if you have an active plant. Otherwise, it is not a good idea to graft on a dormant plant.
 
MOFIGS said:
This might have been answered but when is that best time to graft? I have some plants that’s dormant in my basement can I graft to them right now or should I wait to the summer?
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if youre doing a typical cleft/whip and tongue etc graft then spring when the sap is flowing is the time. if youre doing a bud/chip graft you can graft basically any time its not dormant, but its usually done in summer
 
I would like graft cold hardy cuttings of a fig tree to the lower trunk near the soil line of another mature cold hardy fig tree then bury it with compost and mulch during spring.

Does this mean I would have both a grafted mature tree and a tree with it's own roots? I would love to have 2-3 fig varieties on the same spots of my mature tree so I can use my space efficiently. I don't want my grafts to die in the winter but maybe if it had its own root system it can survive a zone 7 winter.
 
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