Need Help Pruning Big Celeste Tree

[Figlawyer]

Hi fig friends. I moved here 1.5 years ago and inherited this big tree I did quite a few big rejuvenation cuts last year, and it responded well growth wise but didn't produce a lot of fig compared to the year before. I've already pruned it quite a bit, removed some overlapping branches, etc. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

The biggest question I have is should I prune the branches growing straight up down to about the second node, hoping that all of these branches will shoot back up and produce figs on every node or should I prune down to chest height or do something else?

Ascpete sent a video last year showing me a professional fig orchard that cut all their scaffold branches down to about the second node every year, and I tried that last year with this tree, but got poor fruit production. Perhaps that was because I also took back the trunk during the rejuvenation pruning? Thanks!

 

[ktrain]

Nice tree, I think all the general rules apply, any branches too close or touching.
Take into consideration how you want it to fill out and where.
And also how high you want it to get.

That should take care of most of the pruning.

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

Troy Priddy on YouTube has just posted 12 or so videos on pruning his low cordon figs. That’s a good reference. He does say that leaving a few nodes of last years growth produces the best and earliest figs.

 

[Figlawyer]

Nice tree, I think all the general rules apply, any branches too close or touching.
Take into consideration how you want it to fill out and where.
And also how high you want it to get.

That should take care of most of the pruning.

Thanks!

 

[Figlawyer]

Troy Priddy on YouTube has just posted 12 or so videos on pruning his low cordon figs. That’s a good reference. He does say that leaving a few nodes of last years growth produces the best and earliest figs.

Thanks I’ll check those out!

 

[bushdoctor82]

Picture below is my take on the tree. My reasoning, right or wrong, is to form more permanent secondary scaffolding which should help keep the tree more uniform. Red is pruning cuts and blue is next seasons fruiting branches. A very rough approximation.

 

[RosyPosy]

I find that pruning is different when your trees are left outside year round vs. storing them, especially if you live in an area that can get hit with some cold after a warmup in late winter/early spring.

I did that kind of aggressive pruning on my trees last winter and my season suffered for it.

If you know a tree to be a really good grower, cutting it down to about two nodes should be okay. But if it is a slower grower, leaving four or five nodes is better.

Going forward for myself, I will only be pruning for airflow and to keep branches at a height that works for me.

 

[Gladstone1969]

General rule for me is cut out old wood to stump it at a few nodes, and leave & protect ~1 year old wood with apical and lateral buds. This is to maximize chance of breba crop, and have mature apical and lateral nodes to give the quickest new fruiting branches for main crop. The youngest lowest branches are also the easiest to bend down to protect by covering with wood chips/mulch. Best of all worlds in my opinion in a cold zone where the bush form works well.

 

[Figlawyer]

I find that pruning is different when your trees are left outside year round vs. storing them, especially if you live in an area that can get hit with some cold after a warmup in late winter/early spring.

I did that kind of aggressive pruning on my trees last winter and my season suffered for it.

If you know a tree to be a really good grower, cutting it down to about two nodes should be okay. But if it is a slower grower, leaving four or five nodes is better.

Going forward for myself, I will only be pruning for airflow and to keep branches at a height that works for me.

Thanks! That’s helpful.

 

[Figlawyer]

Picture below is my take on the tree. My reasoning, right or wrong, is to form more permanent secondary scaffolding which should help keep the tree more uniform. Red is pruning cuts and blue is next seasons fruiting branches. A very rough approximation.

View attachment 3479

Thank you! That’s what I was kind of thinking. Cutting the main scaffold to about chest height that will allow for secondary scaffolds plus regrowth of the main scaffold. Your reply helps me feel more confident doing that.

 

[Figless]

This is my first dormant season. I also have yet to plant a fig tree in the ground here in Berkeley California. Up till now all the pruning and shaping that I did on my trees was in the Autumn season. I mostly followed @Oak Fig advice. I am hoping he is still a member here. Now that I'm in the dormant season I'll be harvesting as many cuttings as I can to share with members here at Figfanatic. I imagine most of those members will be newbies. Since I am still less than 1 year old at growing fig trees. And my home Orchard reflects that.