White Madeira #1 and/or I-258

MFJFIGS

MFJFIGS

Well-known member
I hope members growing both WM#1 and I-258 in ground (or in containers) would weigh in.

I understand WM#1 ripens its figs earlier in the season but I have also read conflicting information on how late these two varieties are when grown in colder climates.
Although we are in Zone 6b MA, we still accumulate a decent amount of GDD totaling about 2,800 by first week of October, before first frost. Note that last frost is around May 1st, so with some effort I would think an in-ground WM#1 should ripen a good chunk of its crop; and supposedly it does well when ripening in cooler temperatures.

I-258 is undoubtedly a premium fig, at least for me. My tree is young so I have never had the pleasure of trying a breba, but I have seen some amazing reports and photos of breathtaking I-258 brebas.

I put a WM#1 in ground this summer and I plan to give it a head start. Early April, I will use a small pop-up greenhouse equipped with 250 watt incandescent light for night time, and use warm water to help bring up soil temperature. At night, I would also cover it with heavy duty tarps to trap the heat and keep temperatures above 45F°…

I am contemplating doing the same thing with I-258, but not sure if that would work especially if it ripens much later when temperatures are in the mid 60’s

I would love to hear your thoughts on this…
 
My in ground I-258 is a beast and a great producer. I don't regret putting it in the ground at all. I have a fig on nearly every node and (aside from what critters eat) I should be eating most of them. Last season I had way more than I could eat and made loads of jam.

It's too dark to go out and take a fresh picture. These are from August 12

258a.jpg258b.jpg
 
That is a majestic I-258.
Do you get any brebas or you prune it real hard at the end of the season?
When do figs form and when do they start ripening?
 
I think if you’re wanting a head start for a inground tree I would consider burying a frost tape in the soil to warm up the roots earlier in the season. I’m basing this off my potted trees that I over winter in the greenhouse wake up about 3-4 weeks earlier then the trees planted in the large planters that stay full time in the greenhouse. The large planters have much more soil mass that needs energized before buds start pushing. Just my two cents from what I’m seeing here also in 6b/7a
 

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I get very few brebas.

I have no choice but to prune it hard at end of season. I need to get it down to size for my winter protection method.

TorontoJoe

Post in thread 'Electri-fig-ation'

For those who don't know me. This is how I protect my in-ground trees for the winter here in Toronto, Canada

I've been looking forward to posting the 2024 Electri-fig-ation so it has a better sense of real-time.

I'll just focus on the in ground I-258 this year that fruited so nicely

The first thing I needed to do was turn what was, this tree

258.jpg


Into this tree

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I skipped the burlap last year which I think was a mistake and responsible for holding some moisture on the insulation. So I got it on there prior to installing my heating cables.... Being...
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I should be eating mains by first week in September.

Figs are forming later every year as I need to remove more budding wood. This goes for all my in ground trees.... The solution for this is Part 2 which is a work in progress

TorontoJoe

Thread 'Electri-fig-ation - Part 2 - Subterranean'

Sometimes, occasionally.... I try to post something that's of actual, practical use :) I hope this helps others growing figs in cold climates and like the original, Electri-fig-ation method, I hope others find their own ways to adapt and improve on the idea.

As these well protected trees get bigger and bigger they start to wake up later and later every year. We've had some discussion about trying to get the trees to wake earlier in the spring by applying warm water to the root zone....I don't know how well that works. I've been hinting around trying to figure out...
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That part 2 is interesting too!

On this note, this summer I did not remove all the new shoots that popped from beneath the soil, instead I let a few grow tall hoping that they survive the winter and next year would wake up, produce brebas, and form main crop fruits earlier than the older and much thicker branches.
 
MFJFIGS said:
That part 2 is interesting too!

On this note, this summer I did not remove all the new shoots that popped from beneath the soil, instead I let a few grow tall hoping that they survive the winter and next year would wake up, produce brebas, and form main crop fruits earlier than the older and much thicker branches.
Click to expand...
Do this intentionally and bury a few under mulch that are horizontal. Don’t pull them up until close to or just after your last frost date.
 
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