Water Rooting
- Thread starter ohiobruce
- Start date
ohiobruce
Well-known member
I used an aquarium heater and maintained the water temp at 75F.
Armo
Well-known member
That's something that can be tried than. Use a heat mat, set the temp. at 75 and see if it makes a difference. Add water daily as it would evaporate faster.
I've had thin and greenish cuttings in water since early December. Those white dots formed like 3 weeks ago but no roots have come out. Now the leaves are starting to bud and grow but I don't know if that's a good sign or a bad sign to have leaves with no roots.
I potted mine up at that point.
I made a big mistake with one of mine. I potted it upside down and realized it this morning. To my surprise there were roots at the very bottom. Well, the top.
Armo
Well-known member
Do you mind helping out with a coupe of questions please.
When you potted the cuttings into the soil did you use a more wetter soil than usual?
Did you keep the pot on the heating mat?
Also did you start giving it lights right away since it already had leaves budding?
How long did it take to see roots come out?
Thank you
I use a potting mix called 5-1-1. Actually I use 5-2-1. 5 parts reptibark, 2 parts coco coir and 1 part perlite. This is what my citrus trees are planted in and I don't have to worry about roots rotting from too much water. It drains really well. I also pot my cuttings in clear cups so I can see condensation under the soil line. If there is condensation, I don't water. I try to keep the cuttings damp by feeling the soil with my fingers.
I don't use a heating mat. I keep telling myself I don't root enough cuttings every year to warrant the purchase. My cuttings are just kept in a dark warm room while in glass jars to start and when I see anything green growing, I move them to a room with natural bright light. Now that I replaced my windows in the house, my temps are consistently 71*.
As for when roots begin, each cutting is different. I get cuttings from different sources with different thicknesses. I don't know how the tree is grown. I have received cuttings with different colored bark. The green colored lignified cuttings root faster for me than grey or brown. Where the cutting is located on a branch also makes a difference.
The one thing I do caution you with is to not up pot too soon. I have done that and lost many cuttings due to shock. A friend of mine told me do not pick up the cups while rooting because you can ruin the tiny hairs on the roots when the dirt shifts. I am a helicopter mom when it comes to rooting and always pick up cups to search for signs of rooting. That's a hard habit to break. lol
Every year I learn something new with rooting cuttings so I tweak this or that as I go along. Good luck!!
BucksCountyFigs
Well-known member
The studies showed something like 80% grow roots first, while 20% show leaves first. (I forget the exact numbers).
Sometimes when leaves show first, it’s still fine when roots erupt shortly afterwards.
If leaves keep growing with no sign of roots, that’s bad, since those leaves are just being pushed out using the energy stored in the cutting.
BucksCountyFigs
Well-known member
From one helicopter gardener to another…
Don’t worry about picking up the cups or handling your fig pops.
I pick up fig pops every day, turning them around looking for roots or for any problems, so I can head it off at the pass. I am none too gentle handling the pops. I plop them on the table, on the floor, check them out, put them back into the bin, etc. - you get the picture.
And worst, since my propagation bins are jam packed, and I’m always wiggling a hand down there and smushing the bags this way and that to make room for one more fig pop. I’m sure I’m smushing roots with my man handling, but it’s all seriously fine. I have never had a issue from it.
betdempster
Well-known member
Lol I was so worried about that but every day the killer roots get more killer. I'm going to have an up potting weekend but I don't know what to do with this it's got more roots than any other one but just tiny little leaf buds( zoom in and you can see) but I also think it may be getting dry. I got a ink refill syringe I can put a little weak fertilizer. How big do the leaves need to be to up pot?
I think it's well-accepted that "water-roots" differ from normal roots.
I once had a talk with a guy that took care of the hydro-culture plants in our office building, and he told me that if you switch from normal to hydro-culture (like most office plants are nowadays) or vice versa, the plants have to "re-think" their roots, and will stall for a bit...
BucksCountyFigs
Well-known member
It looks great!
. But IMHO, I would give it some more time to make more roots before up potting, maybe a couple more weeks.While it is doing that, I would also start to give it some dilute fertilizer, so it can get some nitrogen to encourage the green to grow some more.
What do you usually have covering those leaves - was it parafilm, the top of the fig pop bag, the tote was covered, etc? The reason I ask is because I have another suggestion to encourage those leaves, but it depends on what the answer is.
betdempster
Well-known member
I dip the top of cuttings in wax usually but I think that one came with the top wrapped in parafilm and I very carefully sanitized around it. I was afraid to cut it off because it was too near the node
GilaMonster
Well-known member
I had put 1 in a cup for about 2 weeks and have a 1 inch root, this is a miracle for me, its only the second cutting ive gotten to root, i havent decided what to do about transplanting it. I have 2 others with roots beginning all in water cups.I feel the same way. I've been changing the water every other day. The one good thing about this method is you can check for mold easily. I did notice it twice and lowered the humidity. At least we tried it!how long were yours in water for you to get the 1 inch root? Mine gave been in since Cbristmas, and although I have a lot of lenticels, I've got no roots