Starting cuttings in water
- Thread starter LaFigGwr18
- Start date
LaFigGwr18
Well-known member
I too have done the pineapple with my kids. I am still waiting for it to fruit,A good sign, I never had good luck with that but those look to be on there way.
I did root a pineapple in water.
ktrain
Moderator
We just did ours this year, so...couple years we're hoping.I too have done the pineapple with my kids. I am still waiting for it to fruit,
Figless
Well-known member
I have yet to have a very good luck with water propagation. So far the cup and lid method of propagating has done the very best results for me. Next the U-Line bag method creating fig pops has also had a higher rate of success. The water method so far has been the worst method for propagation for me. To be honest I have been trying to avoid using Coco coir. But right now I am using it in a 50/50 mix with Pro mix
@LaFigGwr18
Do you plan on just "pre-rooting" in water, and then move to a pot once roots really start to form,
or do you try to go all the way in water?
I'm asking because some people post that "water roots" are somewhat "different" from the roots you
get in soil, and tend to break off rather easily when potting up. I do see the possible advantage of
pre-rooting (or should say" "re-hydrating"?) in water for a couple of days (some people do 1-2 weeks)
before sticking them in a 4x9.
Do you plan on just "pre-rooting" in water, and then move to a pot once roots really start to form,
or do you try to go all the way in water?
I'm asking because some people post that "water roots" are somewhat "different" from the roots you
get in soil, and tend to break off rather easily when potting up. I do see the possible advantage of
pre-rooting (or should say" "re-hydrating"?) in water for a couple of days (some people do 1-2 weeks)
before sticking them in a 4x9.
bushdoctor82
Well-known member
I’ll be following along as this is also my first crack at water rooting.
I started some in water just before Christmas ranging from pencil thickness to near 2” in diameter. The smaller diameter cuttings are leafing out and the buds on larger ones are just starting to protrude. Still, none have developed roots, but the smaller diameter cuttings have more developed lenticels - hoping roots will form soon before any more top growth.
I started some in water just before Christmas ranging from pencil thickness to near 2” in diameter. The smaller diameter cuttings are leafing out and the buds on larger ones are just starting to protrude. Still, none have developed roots, but the smaller diameter cuttings have more developed lenticels - hoping roots will form soon before any more top growth.
LaFigGwr18
Well-known member
Schoenie,
I plan on it forming some roots then potting it to soil. I have done that to some of my other figs and they are still alive and in ground. I will try to keep this post going till summer
. @Figless, sorry to hear that. I have done this multiple times and I have had great luck with it. I just wish I had known about this when I first started and got some of those high end cuttings. Maybe I would have gotten some to root.
@bushdoctor82, I wish you the best of luck with your cuttings.
My advice: keep them in the (nearly) dark while rooting.
Roots love dark, and you don't want your cuttings to "feel" like spring (i.e. warmer, with more light) has arrived...
Good luck with getting these started.
DallasFigShop
Well-known member
I have rooted ALOT of figs in water.
The key is temperature since water can swing high and low easier... be watchful by windows on cooler nights . I run lights under them... a stand that I can start seeds under... for bottom warmth
i use rainwater and lots of hydrogen peroxide. I do find that since they want co2 more than oxygen that I get alot of root formation above water in the early stages. By the time they are strong the h202 has released and turned to water and they seem stronger afterwards.
. I start off about 1 to 5 ratio with rainwater and without having to worry about the powdery stains left by hard calcified water.. which I'll use but only when short of rainwater and I have to change it more often when I do... with rainwater and occasionally dousing wherever anything besides figs grow i can avoid changing water as often with most of them, many not at all or just once or twice during the process
My primary hobby is to trial figs for this climate..Many do well in ground here but if they do well in pots then there is the potential for stardom! And some I just have to catch a taste of..
Water rooting imo is the best method for areas with warmer winters when mindful of the key factors... especially in keeping stable temps by a sunny window but with mind paid to fluctuations...temps between 65F and 85F seems to be the range some varieties like the top of the rangr and some move faster at the bottom of the range, i suspect it anyhow.
With that said it gets too hot to water root in the early to late spring here and so the variable is key in this climate... unless you are all in on controlling the conditions I let the window and the sun handle most of it
these are mostly trials, a few duplications and some that I just had to get. I am going to have to get a field. Just this morning i was thinking that someday I'll start a workshop where I'll teach ppl how to put these into water and to be mindful about stable temps .. yeah the roots can break but once you get the hang of it a root here or there is not an issue. I tend to pot up before alot of roots grow but when I do I take Jrmstssus's advice to place them in the container and to fill it with bike dry soil before wetting it.
The chances are higher but IF you put the time in and watch them regularly and correct all issues ... note cloudy water or odors .. never let one sit in water with one that is rotting.. the h202 can help offer alot of that, as does using rainwater.. the gel that some varieties form to heal is not an issue and clouds the water differently but I will still change it after a few days but so long as I can see the cutting easily through the water
So far this year I have roots on three
TFH Firehouse
Atreano
Labritja
The key is temperature since water can swing high and low easier... be watchful by windows on cooler nights . I run lights under them... a stand that I can start seeds under... for bottom warmth
i use rainwater and lots of hydrogen peroxide. I do find that since they want co2 more than oxygen that I get alot of root formation above water in the early stages. By the time they are strong the h202 has released and turned to water and they seem stronger afterwards.
. I start off about 1 to 5 ratio with rainwater and without having to worry about the powdery stains left by hard calcified water.. which I'll use but only when short of rainwater and I have to change it more often when I do... with rainwater and occasionally dousing wherever anything besides figs grow i can avoid changing water as often with most of them, many not at all or just once or twice during the process
My primary hobby is to trial figs for this climate..Many do well in ground here but if they do well in pots then there is the potential for stardom! And some I just have to catch a taste of..
Water rooting imo is the best method for areas with warmer winters when mindful of the key factors... especially in keeping stable temps by a sunny window but with mind paid to fluctuations...temps between 65F and 85F seems to be the range some varieties like the top of the rangr and some move faster at the bottom of the range, i suspect it anyhow.
With that said it gets too hot to water root in the early to late spring here and so the variable is key in this climate... unless you are all in on controlling the conditions I let the window and the sun handle most of it
these are mostly trials, a few duplications and some that I just had to get. I am going to have to get a field. Just this morning i was thinking that someday I'll start a workshop where I'll teach ppl how to put these into water and to be mindful about stable temps .. yeah the roots can break but once you get the hang of it a root here or there is not an issue. I tend to pot up before alot of roots grow but when I do I take Jrmstssus's advice to place them in the container and to fill it with bike dry soil before wetting it.
The chances are higher but IF you put the time in and watch them regularly and correct all issues ... note cloudy water or odors .. never let one sit in water with one that is rotting.. the h202 can help offer alot of that, as does using rainwater.. the gel that some varieties form to heal is not an issue and clouds the water differently but I will still change it after a few days but so long as I can see the cutting easily through the water
So far this year I have roots on three
TFH Firehouse
Atreano
Labritja
Thanks for the elaborate description @DallasFigShop! It sure looks like you've got more than a bit going on there!
Quick question: Do you prefer to use the Greek Yoghurt cup for Greek varieties like the Vasilika Mavra specifically?
I think I would intuitively reach for the "Goodness, Greatness" cup anytime.
I hope they all work out for you!
DallasFigShop
Well-known member
Yes I do. I did that without thinking lol but the original discussion with the guy i got those from in trade was for a collection of Greek varieties ... I ended up with a whole different grouping however and so maybe unconsciously I was trying to breed a Greek chimeraThanks for the elaborate description @DallasFigShop! It sure looks like you've got more than a bit going on there!
Quick question: Do you prefer to use the Greek Yoghurt cup for Greek varieties like the Vasilika Mavra specifically?
I think I would intuitively reach for the "Goodness, Greatness" cup anytime.
I hope they all work out for you!
DallasFigShop
Well-known member
Yes but more strict because water temp can wing alot faster while soil will insulate .. up and down is good but within the ranges I personally believe just below 60F and through 85F tops
Figless
Well-known member
Dallas thank you so much for this information. So far I have not been successful in water rooting any cuttings. The two methods that have worked best for me are the transparent 24 oz cup and lid method, also the Uline fig Pop method. Both use transparent containers that readily show Roots as they develop. Also lend themselves to heat mats. Maybe you could suggest when and how to apply hydrogen peroxide to clean up the water.
Nora
Member
I tried water rooting with about 10 cuttings last year and was delightfully successful with all of them. In the beginning I had to watch for muck in the water and changed the water often (every 3 days?) and gently cleaned any cuttings with possible mold. Once the roots started, I didn’t need to change the water, just added more water as it was used up by the plant. I let the cuttings develop extensive roots before uppotting. Also followed this advice: “take Jrmstssus's advice to place them in the container and to fill it with completely dry soil before wetting it.” The cuttings were inside, near a window. Plan to try that method again this year, and perhaps use h2o2 for mold prevention.
Once the roots were present and leaves appeared, I used weak fertilizer from time to time.
Once the roots were present and leaves appeared, I used weak fertilizer from time to time.
TorontoJoe
Administrator
Pineapple water? Were you rooting cuttings while having cocktails?A good sign, I never had good luck with that but those look to be on there way.
I did root a pineapple in water.
TorontoJoe
Administrator
That settles it. I’m trying this again. I’ve had two cuttings in pops for weeks now with no sign of roots yet
ktrain
Moderator
You know me man ...
DallasFigShop
Well-known member
Sure. When i start with the cuttings I put them in a cup with the water to a high level.. 1 part h202 and 4 parts water. I just allow it to release oxygen ok it's own and water to evaporate down to the level I want to use...
If anything grows on say a node or if the water looks iffy, i squirter h202 on it lol sometimes if a node sits by the edge of a cup it will grow a little fuzz.. if its small I jist h202 it and then again but if it looks bad or if the water looks bad I will take them to the sink and wash good again and do another portion of h202 with water again.
It doesn't necessarily fix a bad problem but is a good preventative for easy problems. It does seem to affect lenticles changing their color even but even though it slows them down by a couple of days, they seemed to bounce back strongly i think it's good for them despite the faxt that roots want c02 rather than Oxygen