Should I grow a Caprifig?

GoodFriendMike

Moderator
This is a question many ask. Growing them is not for everyone.
Some are happy with there figs and don't feel the need to grow one.
Others in colder areas may not feel it is worth the extra care it may take
to keep it from dying back. Meaning you can't cut it back like may do
with their female figs.
For other's it is worth it for many reason's.
Pollinating improves the flavor with most figs.
Some figs you find mediocre. You will find amazing when pollinated.
Think of all the great figs you can not try in your area because they need the wasp (Smryna types)
Some of those are my favorites. Most of those dried figs you get from the store
are the Sari Lop variety also known as Calimryna.
If you wanted to grow this fig you need the wasp or need to hand pollinate.
Some and this number is growing want to attempt to start a wasp colony
in areas that do not already have them. Why? Because pollinated figs are good.
This will take a lot of work and time for anyone trying this. You will also fail a few times before you know
what is needed to succeed. But it is possible in many areas.
Than you have others that want to try there hand at growing seeds.
If that is your only reason for wanting a Capri. Tinkerbug sells seeds.
The price is a little high. But is way cheaper in the long run than
buying and caring for a tree you got just to try growing a couple seedlings.
Now if you plan to grow many seedlings. I suggest getting a few different persistent Capri.
And have plenty of cleared land. :)
But should you grow a Capri?
If you have the room for 3 trees. Yes. I would plant your two favorites
and something like Capri Q. That way you can hand pollinate
and improve your favorite figs. But also get a tasty edible main crop from your Capri Q.
Which can also be pollinated.
Capri may not be for everyone. But for many fig lovers.
They are a must. :)
 
I have 5 trees in ground, and another dozen in 15 gallon pots (most multigrafted for space limitations). Focusing on taste rather than seedlings, how many capri figs should I have to accomodate?
 
I have 5 trees in ground, and another dozen in 15 gallon pots (most multigrafted for space limitations). Focusing on taste rather than seedlings, how many capri figs should I have to accomodate?
Just one would be fine, but with 2 or 3 different grafts on it would be a help, so you will have them mature over a longer period in the season.
 
I have 5 trees in ground, and another dozen in 15 gallon pots (most multigrafted for space limitations). Focusing on taste rather than seedlings, how many capri figs should I have to accomodate?
If you are growing inground and letting it grow to a decent size. One will do. As Rob said. But if kept in pots. 15g or smaller. I would grow atleast two.
 
If you are going to use wasps to pollinate, it is very important to grow Caprifigs that mature at the correct time that will suit your female trees. If you are only hand pollinating, pollen can be stored in fridge for a few weeks, so as long as pollen is available for your first receptive fig, you should be fine.
 
If you are going to use wasps to pollinate, it is very important to grow Caprifigs that mature at the correct time that will suit your female trees. If you are only hand pollinating, pollen can be stored in fridge for a few weeks, so as long as pollen is available for your first receptive fig, you should be fine.
@Rob @GoodFriendMike Thank you both for sharing your experience and insight!

I have two follow-up questions:

@GoodFriendMike you mention "you can't cut it back like may do with their female figs". Can you elaborate a bit on that? Do caprifigs tend to be more sensititve to pruning, or are you referring to the fact that in Fig Wasp country, one would want to make sure to keep enough figs around to provide continued housing for a local Fig Wasp population?

@Rob you mention the importance of growing "Caprifigs that mature at the correct time that will suit your female trees". Has anyone come up yet with some sort of diagram which shows how the various caprifig varieties compare in terms of "ripening" their profichi crop? BTW: I guess a diagram like that would best be put togehter by someone who grows several varieties side-by side. It seems there's this caprifig-enthusiast in Louisiana... LOL!
 
@Rob @GoodFriendMike Thank you both for sharing your experience and insight!

I have two follow-up questions:

@GoodFriendMike you mention "you can't cut it back like may do with their female figs". Can you elaborate a bit on that? Do caprifigs tend to be more sensititve to pruning, or are you referring to the fact that in Fig Wasp country, one would want to make sure to keep enough figs around to provide continued housing for a local Fig Wasp population?

@Rob you mention the importance of growing "Caprifigs that mature at the correct time that will suit your female trees". Has anyone come up yet with some sort of diagram which shows how the various caprifig varieties compare in terms of "ripening" their profichi crop? BTW: I guess a diagram like that would best be put togehter by someone who grows several varieties side-by side. It seems there's this caprifig-enthusiast in Louisiana... LOL!
Most who prune fig trees do so for main crop. Not for breba.
So if you prune your Capri like most people (not all) prune there female figs.
You will not get profichi as they grow on the older wood like female figs breba.
 
Also to add. Many of the older named Capri varieties have there ripening times documented.
As far as new varieties. That has not really been done yet.
 
Almost everything that is written about Caprifig pruning says that unless there is an issue with branches rubbing etc, don't prune them. The first issue is as Mike mentioned, the second is that if you have wasps and very hot sun, the wasps will die, and the figs will be scorched, if not shaded well. Interestingly, a test I read recently suggested a high Potassium fertilizer can help with fig sunburn with Sarilop, but it may increase cracking.

With ripening times, that can vary a lot with your location, I would guess that most of the research that Condit did back in the early 1900's would be based on California's climate, in other areas it could vary quite a bit, even season to season as it does here.

Potassium with Sarilop.jpg
 
Almost everything that is written about Caprifig pruning says that unless there is an issue with branches rubbing etc, don't prune them. The first issue is as Mike mentioned, the second is that if you have wasps and very hot sun, the wasps will die, and the figs will be scorched, if not shaded well. Interestingly, a test I read recently suggested a high Potassium fertilizer can help with fig sunburn with Sarilop, but it may increase cracking.

With ripening times, that can vary a lot with your location, I would guess that most of the research that Condit did back in the early 1900's would be based on California's climate, in other areas it could vary quite a bit, even season to season as it does here.

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Thank you for following up Rob: lots of information in there!

Would you (both) agree that it might be best to plant caprifigs in a more/somewhat shaded area?

I was thinking of selecting a few (maybe 3 or 4) caprifigs with overlapping (but different "profichi ripening times" and grafting them onto the same tree. Any thoughts on that?

As for the profichi ripening times: I do have a digital copy of Condit's "Caprifigs and Caprification" (Bulletin No. 319, March 1930). Is this the work you are referring to? Luckily, I reside in California... I will try to work my way through the book, and see if I'm able to distill the information I'm looking for. Thank you for the guidance; much appreciated!
 
Location in the yard can change when they ripen. The more sunny the earlier. The more shade they will be later.
If the tree is healthy and full of leaves it can be planted anywhere.
 
Thank you for following up Rob: lots of information in there!

Would you (both) agree that it might be best to plant caprifigs in a more/somewhat shaded area?
Full sun is certainly best for the tree's growth, only their leaves need to shade the figs.
I was thinking of selecting a few (maybe 3 or 4) caprifigs with overlapping (but different "profichi ripening times" and grafting them onto the same tree. Any thoughts on that?
That would be what I would do also, and if there is room, possibly 6, and just retain the ones that do better for you....or keep them all?

As for the profichi ripening times: I do have a digital copy of Condit's "Caprifigs and Caprification" (Bulletin No. 319, March 1930). Is this the work you are referring to? Luckily, I reside in California... I will try to work my way through the book, and see if I'm able to distill the information I'm looking for. Thank you for the guidance; much appreciated!
With Condit's work, I believe his 1955 Fig Varieties ...is possibly a better one to look at, Caprifigs, and in fact all figs are listed by internal and external colour, it gives a better idea of everything, to make a better decision. I have included a digital copy below.
 

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