Figless
Well-known member
@"GoodFriendMike"#9 @"Figology"#21 Know a great deal more about this subject than I do. In fact Mike if you want to put your post before mine I would be fine with it.
Important item #1 do not overuse your para film m or buddy tape. Just seal off the very top of your cutting. If you seal off more than the very top at most a quarter to a half inch at maximum down from the top of the cutting. You're just trying to seal off the top of the cutting.
Ideally there are substances that will inhibit insects, and fungus, molds, and cambium layer bark rots. Such as wettable sulfur. Also a 10% bleach bath for 5 minutes will help inhibit fungus and rot.
First off I recommend applying wettable sulfur by dip. This should be done with just a simple room light on... Do not use your overhead grow lights. This treatment should be followed by 24 hours of Darkness before turning back on your overhead grow lights. This sulfur compound has a strong tendency to sink and collect on the bottom of whatever you put it in. I am a big believer of Dipping rather than spraying wettable sulfur. I personally like to suspend wettable sulfur with a yucca extract compound. Maybe a teaspoon in strength, nectar of the god sells a good product. It will help as a wetting agent but more importantly it will suspend the sulfur in the solution. This will also inhibit mischievous spider mites, and those sneaky little Fig bud mites. These mites tend to spread the symptoms of fig mosaic virus. They are actually two different things, but only FBM is easily treatable. First off what is it? 90% of our members know very well what this is, but let's review for our newer members.
The scientific name for the fig bud mite is Aceria fici. Fig bud mites are microscopic, wedge-shaped, and pale yellow, with two pairs of legs near the front of their body. They are a type of (((eriophyid mite))), which are a family of mites that also includes blister, gall, and rust mites. FBM cannot be seen with the naked eye, or even a 10x jewelers loop. It usually requires 100x microscope to easily identify this pesky tiny But utterly deadly (((eriophyid mite))).
Fig bud mites are a pest that can infest bud scales and young leaves of fig trees. They feed on the leaves, causing a faint russeting and sometimes leading to leaf drop and stunted twigs. More importantly, fig bud mites transmit the fig mosaic virus, which can deform plants. Also outright kill cuttings.
Also Trust, and Believe they are responsible for a lot of sudden cutting death that is often misdiagnosed to other causes.
So FBM (Fig Bud Mites). Spider mites, some types of aphids all can be easily controlled with wettable sulfur. Especially if it's suspended in a liquid solution with yucca extract or some other suspending agent. I do recommend dipping cuttings above the soil line when employing fig pops that are sealed in Uline bags. Or the transparent plastic cup, and lid method of propagation. This post is limited to Pest Control, it is not intended to be a propagation class. It's sufficient to say that sealed bags like fig pops and transparent plastic cups with lids lend themselves easily to be dipped in a wettable sulfur solution.
Once you've treated your brand new propagation starts with wettable sulfur you should be good to go untill the foliage has broken out over your propagation table. When that has happened reapply the wettable sulfur as before using a suspending agent and no more than one tablespoon per gallon of wettable sulfur in your solution. Now if you wish to be super safe you add a treatment of spinosad in rotation to make utterly certain that no pests will break out in your indoor propagation Center. This post is for bigger propagation lots maybe at least 30 cuttings at a time....
Important item #1 do not overuse your para film m or buddy tape. Just seal off the very top of your cutting. If you seal off more than the very top at most a quarter to a half inch at maximum down from the top of the cutting. You're just trying to seal off the top of the cutting.
Ideally there are substances that will inhibit insects, and fungus, molds, and cambium layer bark rots. Such as wettable sulfur. Also a 10% bleach bath for 5 minutes will help inhibit fungus and rot.
First off I recommend applying wettable sulfur by dip. This should be done with just a simple room light on... Do not use your overhead grow lights. This treatment should be followed by 24 hours of Darkness before turning back on your overhead grow lights. This sulfur compound has a strong tendency to sink and collect on the bottom of whatever you put it in. I am a big believer of Dipping rather than spraying wettable sulfur. I personally like to suspend wettable sulfur with a yucca extract compound. Maybe a teaspoon in strength, nectar of the god sells a good product. It will help as a wetting agent but more importantly it will suspend the sulfur in the solution. This will also inhibit mischievous spider mites, and those sneaky little Fig bud mites. These mites tend to spread the symptoms of fig mosaic virus. They are actually two different things, but only FBM is easily treatable. First off what is it? 90% of our members know very well what this is, but let's review for our newer members.
The scientific name for the fig bud mite is Aceria fici. Fig bud mites are microscopic, wedge-shaped, and pale yellow, with two pairs of legs near the front of their body. They are a type of (((eriophyid mite))), which are a family of mites that also includes blister, gall, and rust mites. FBM cannot be seen with the naked eye, or even a 10x jewelers loop. It usually requires 100x microscope to easily identify this pesky tiny But utterly deadly (((eriophyid mite))).
Fig bud mites are a pest that can infest bud scales and young leaves of fig trees. They feed on the leaves, causing a faint russeting and sometimes leading to leaf drop and stunted twigs. More importantly, fig bud mites transmit the fig mosaic virus, which can deform plants. Also outright kill cuttings.
Also Trust, and Believe they are responsible for a lot of sudden cutting death that is often misdiagnosed to other causes.
So FBM (Fig Bud Mites). Spider mites, some types of aphids all can be easily controlled with wettable sulfur. Especially if it's suspended in a liquid solution with yucca extract or some other suspending agent. I do recommend dipping cuttings above the soil line when employing fig pops that are sealed in Uline bags. Or the transparent plastic cup, and lid method of propagation. This post is limited to Pest Control, it is not intended to be a propagation class. It's sufficient to say that sealed bags like fig pops and transparent plastic cups with lids lend themselves easily to be dipped in a wettable sulfur solution.
Once you've treated your brand new propagation starts with wettable sulfur you should be good to go untill the foliage has broken out over your propagation table. When that has happened reapply the wettable sulfur as before using a suspending agent and no more than one tablespoon per gallon of wettable sulfur in your solution. Now if you wish to be super safe you add a treatment of spinosad in rotation to make utterly certain that no pests will break out in your indoor propagation Center. This post is for bigger propagation lots maybe at least 30 cuttings at a time....
