Have You Ever Beaten a Severe Fig Mite Infestation?

wyanokie

Well-known member
Question for the group:

Have you ever had a confirmed fig mite infestation on multiple trees, and beat it completely (i.e. they didn't reoccur in subsequent seasons)? If so:

How bad was your infestation?
How rapidly did the infestation spread from tree to tree?
What did you use?
How long did it take?

Thanks,

-W
 
Not too bad. Just all the rooting cuttings in a single tote. They don't spread that quickly(is a relative word) if you watch daily.

Sulfur spray twice, 3-4 weeks apart.

I probably don't need the 2nd spray but did it anyway.

They have a lot of natural enemies outside so usually don't need to deal with them specifically once outside.
 
I only had the problem once. I didn't know what I had until @Figgin' A suggested I get a pocket microscope and then helped me identify them. Sulfur was recommended as a remedy but as spring was approaching, I just took the plant outside and predator insects took care of them for me.

mites1.jpgmites2.jpg

The pocket microscope was a great idea for helping identify pests. it takes out the guesswork. I got this one but I would recommend one that attaches to a phone. These images were very difficult to take.

I got this one


This one might make it easier to get images to share for identification


We discussed it on this thread

 
I think I may have finally eliminated mine. In 2022, when I just started growing figs, I had a major infestation. I got a few leafed-out trees from a well-known grower near Niagara Falls, and all his trees came infested with mites, as I later found out. They did spread on most of my newly rooted trees as well that summer. Mites were confirmed with a microscope. Tons of them. Most leaves, especially the top ones, looked like this:
fig-mites-3.jpg


I tried many things, but what eventually worked is a combination of the following:

Regular sulfur sprays
Exposing the trees to freezing temps down to 20F-23F for 3-5 nights.
Hard pruning
Removing apical buds once the trees go dormant
Dormant oil spray

There is one more thing I did that's quite drastic but seems to have helped - I removed all the infested leaves / top growth. Mites are usually found on new top growth and start on one/a couple leaves, then spread if left unchecked. I don't try to spray those leaves as the risk of some surviving remains. As soon as I see mites there, I prune off all the infected parts, which could be individual leaves or even the upper parts of branches. E.g. one of my newly rooted trees last summer showed spots on some of the top growth in July, I checked and found mites on those leaves. I carefully pruned off all of them, removed apical buds, and gave all of the trees 4-5 sulfur sprays spaced out a few days. That tree grew in the tent since March 1 this year, no sprays in the tent, and I have not seen a single mite, and I spot check regularly.

This summer, I have yet to see any mites, and many of my trees have been growing since late January - early March. Since they've gone outside in May, I gave all of them a prophylactic sulfur spray twice already.
 
I only had the problem once. I didn't know what I had until @Figgin' A suggested I get a pocket microscope and then helped me identify them. Sulfur was recommended as a remedy but as spring was approaching, I just took the plant outside and predator insects took care of them for me.

View attachment 8888View attachment 8889

The pocket microscope was a great idea for helping identify pests. it takes out the guesswork. I got this one but I would recommend one that attaches to a phone. These images were very difficult to take.

I got this one


This one might make it easier to get images to share for identification


We discussed it on this thread

The problem is that eriophyid mites that are not native here do not have native predators that will be present in sufficient numbers to feed heavily on them and provide adequate control.
 
The problem is that eriophyid mites that are not native here do not have native predators that will be present in sufficient numbers to feed heavily on them and provide adequate control.

Seems reasonable... the problem for me did seem to go away on bringing it outdoors.... My Pellegrino looks happy and healthy now. Perhaps my predators like imported treats? I know I do :)
 
The number of predators usually are not sufficient to wipe out the pests completely or the predators themselves would have food shortages. Also, predators are territorial, which further limits the completeness of the pest elimination coverage. It is something good to have outdoors but can't rely on totally.

I think freezing is a good solution, if done right(watch for microclimate) especially in the colder area. Sulfur sprays (at least twice) would be a fall back in the warmer area.

New cuttings from warmer area can potentially introduce new mites. I guess apical bud removal would be a fair choice for prevention.

Is there something people in the south can do to subject the cuttings to just below freezing temperature? Freezer in the fridge is probably too cold for this.
 
I think I may have finally eliminated mine. In 2022, when I just started growing figs, I had a major infestation. I got a few leafed-out trees from a well-known grower near Niagara Falls, and all his trees came infested with mites, as I later found out. They did spread on most of my newly rooted trees as well that summer. Mites were confirmed with a microscope. Tons of them. Most leaves, especially the top ones, looked like this:
fig-mites-3.jpg


I tried many things, but what eventually worked is a combination of the following:

Regular sulfur sprays
Exposing the trees to freezing temps down to 20F-23F for 3-5 nights.
Hard pruning
Removing apical buds once the trees go dormant
Dormant oil spray

@wyanokie @Figgin' A , I have beaten spider mites for a year or more countless times. It is not going to be a problem wyanokie please stay relaxed. You could use combinations for indoor infestations that might include dipping your starts in forbid, and avid plus adding a third miteicide of your choice. This is only to be used for indoor propagation centers. Do not ever use forbid Outdoors. You will create more problems, and pest resistance that way. For outdoor infestations 2% wettable sulfur suspended with yucca extract. I would add an insecticidal soap containing a pyrethoid there are many choices. Repeat every 10 to 14 days it's going to be just fine
 
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