Fig Root Sensitivity to Transplant Shock?

[wyanokie]

Hey Everyone,

Last year I grew my first batch of cuttings using the fig pop method. When the time came to up-pot, I was very concerned with any root disturbance while opening the bags and transplanting them into the intermediate-sized pots for the remainder of the winter. Despite treating each one like a surgical procedure, I did lose 2 out of 25+ to what I assume was transplant shock.

Last night I transplanted my second batch of fig pops to intermediate-sized pots. They were reasonably close to root bound (enough to retain the soil around the roots) but there were one or two circumstances where a clump of soil fell off and pulled on a root, which concerned me a bit.

Then I started reflecting on how hardy plants in general seem to become as they become more root-bound. My grandmother used to take root-bound plants out of their containers (even if they were seedlings in 2 x 2 inch cells) and would cut an 'X' with a razor to open up the roots so they didn't circle. I also remember last year dropping one of my fig pops off of a table when it was barely rooting and it surviving just fine. I'm wondering how sensitive you all find young fig trees to be with at least some reasonable level of root development (i.e. close to or at the point of the roots circling and the roots being dense in the container)? Do you find that it's easy to shock them, or do you find them to be reasonably hardy to transplant?

Thanks much,

Wyanokie

 

[ktrain]

I find them more fragile when the rooting medium is quite different to what they are used to.
Say going from water rooting to soil.
Or even one type of soil to another.
Temps, or how wet or dry it is.
Or a young tender age.

Once they have that many roots, I say they should be tough enough to handle a little rough housing. lol

 

[BNaula1]

I find them more fragile when the rooting medium is quite different to what they are used to.
Say going from water rooting to soil.
Or even one type of soil to another.
Temps, or how wet or dry it is.
Or a young tender age.

Once they have that many roots, I say they should be tough enough to handle a little rough housing. lol

Yeah I usually dry them out a bit before I up-pot and it’s been working fine for me. Never on a week I watered them though

 

[BNaula1]

Hey Everyone,

Last year I grew my first batch of cuttings using the fig pop method. When the time came to up-pot, I was very concerned with any root disturbance while opening the bags and transplanting them into the intermediate-sized pots for the remainder of the winter. Despite treating each one like a surgical procedure, I did lose 2 out of 25+ to what I assume was transplant shock.

Last night I transplanted my second batch of fig pops to intermediate-sized pots. They were reasonably close to root bound (enough to retain the soil around the roots) but there were one or two circumstances where a clump of soil fell off and pulled on a root, which concerned me a bit.

Then I started reflecting on how hardy plants in general seem to become as they become more root-bound. My grandmother used to take root-bound plants out of their containers (even if they were seedlings in 2 x 2 inch cells) and would cut an 'X' with a razor to open up the roots so they didn't circle. I also remember last year dropping one of my fig pops off of a table when it was barely rooting and it surviving just fine. I'm wondering how sensitive you all find young fig trees to be with at least some reasonable level of root development (i.e. close to or at the point of the roots circling and the roots being dense in the container)? Do you find that it's easy to shock them, or do you find them to be reasonably hardy to transplant?

Thanks much,

Wyanokie

Have you tried mycorrhiza? Personally I use Mykos any time I’m repotting or up-potting, apparently it helps reduce transplant shock and since I’ve been using it for my trees and plants I haven’t had an issue with it

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

After you up pot them so you put them in shade for a few days?

 

[Figless]

Have you tried mycorrhiza? Personally I use Mykos any time I’m repotting or up-potting, apparently it helps reduce transplant shock and since I’ve been using it for my trees and plants I haven’t had an issue with it

i use Extreme Myco's (pelletized version) it does seem to help. I also recommend a synthetic fertilizer containing sodium.

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

i use Extreme Myco's (pelletized version) it does seem to help. I also recommend a synthetic fertilizer containing sodium.

Wouldn’t sodium desiccate tender roots?
I assume application rate for this is very important.

 

[bushdoctor82]

I think it depends on the amount of roots. I separated fig cuttings that were started 5 per gallon pot over the weekend and lost plenty of roots during the process. Some wilted and have now recovered, some didn’t miss a beat and some are still limping around.

 

[wyanokie]

@bushdoctor82 @SpiritFarmVa @BNaula1 @ktrain @Figless a belated thank you for your help! I had the flu last week so wasn't on the site. After transplanting, I now have one that died and two that are seriously wilting. I hope the wilting ones recover but I don't have much faith. I think next year I'm going to opt for the direct rooting approach (vs. the fig pops). You live and learn!

 

[ktrain]

@bushdoctor82 @SpiritFarmVa @BNaula1 @ktrain @Figless a belated thank you for your help! I had the flu last week so wasn't on the site. After transplanting, I now have one that died and two that are seriously wilting. I hope the wilting ones recover but I don't have much faith. I think next year I'm going to opt for the direct rooting approach (vs. the fig pops). You live and learn!

I'm sorry to hear of your wilting woes.
I don't really care for the pops either.
In fact I set about 40 pops around end of January, BUT, I ended up changing them over to tree pots because I just got nervous. Lol
It's just my preferred way to root.
That and air layers in spring.

 

[Figless]

I'm sorry to hear of your wilting woes.
I don't really care for the pops either.
In fact I set about 40 pops around end of January, BUT, I ended up changing them over to tree pots because I just got nervous. Lol
It's just my preferred way to root.
That and air layers in spring.

We transplanted over a hundred fig pops with only a couple of losses. No more than 5% but they were very well rooted. I like my steaks well done, and my fig pops almost root bound.

 

[Figless]

Wouldn’t sodium desiccate tender roots?
I assume application rate for this is very important.

I start with the weakest solution, and sometimes cutting that by half as well. The sodium in the fertilizer gets absorbed by The Roots. Carrying with it the nutrient solution impregnating the plant cells. We've been discussing whether the same thing could be done with organic fertilizer at my home Orchard as well. This would be a great time for @Inflorescence who has a greater understanding of organic fertilizers, and synthetic to shares her knowledge.

 

[BNaula1]

@bushdoctor82 @SpiritFarmVa @BNaula1 @ktrain @Figless a belated thank you for your help! I had the flu last week so wasn't on the site. After transplanting, I now have one that died and two that are seriously wilting. I hope the wilting ones recover but I don't have much faith. I think next year I'm going to opt for the direct rooting approach (vs. the fig pops). You live and learn!

Sorry to hear about the flu! hopefully you’re all recovered now, that’s no joke to go through.

I usually really pack my figpops very compact so that when I rip the bag along the seal it stays in form. I haven’t had a single figpop come apart in pieces yet doing that method. Also let it dry out a bit before transplanting, when you do it on wet soil it’s very likely it’ll fall apart and rip at roots. A dry root ball is best on transplanting day!

 

[AAAJacks]

The dryer the medium the easier it is to uppot without damaging the roots

But we stopped using the original fig pops because of this very reason of the roots being disturbed when up potting, so we moved to doing what I call "The Tree Pop" method. In which you stick the cutting in a tree pot instead of a bag, then bag the pot. Put a rubber band or twist tie around the cutting to seal the bag but leave the tip exposed so it does not suffer from vapor pressure deficit like it would if you used a humidity dome.

The benefit of this method is the roots are disturbed less than in the original method and, you get the 100% humidity like you do with the fig pop, which is a very important when rooting.

 

[AAAJacks]

I'm sorry to hear of your wilting woes.
I don't really care for the pops either.
In fact I set about 40 pops around end of January, BUT, I ended up changing them over to tree pots because I just got nervous. Lol
It's just my preferred way to root.
That and air layers in spring.

Yes, for trees you have, I think Air Layers all the way I set in Spring and early Fall

 

[Figless]

Sorry to hear about the flu! hopefully you’re all recovered now, that’s no joke to go through.

I usually really pack my figpops very compact so that when I rip the bag along the seal it stays in form. I haven’t had a single figpop come apart in pieces yet doing that method. Also let it dry out a bit before transplanting, when you do it on wet soil it’s very likely it’ll fall apart and rip at roots. A dry root ball is best on transplanting day!

Those Fig pops look great, I take back all that negative stuff I've been saying about you @BNaula1 . You're all right. :0])

 

[GilaMonster]

Yeah I usually dry them out a bit before I up-pot and it’s been working fine for me. Never on a week I watered them though

That's my strategy as well they are so much easier to move about when dry, lighter too obviously

 

[ktrain]

Yes, for trees you have, I think Air Layers all the way I set in Spring and early Fall

Yes Sir, I do try some in mid summer, but you definitely have to protect them from the sun, and they seem to root much slower in the mid summer heat.
So I quit doing those for the most part.

 

[BNaula1]

Those Fig pops look great, I take back all that negative stuff I've been saying about you @BNaula1 . You're all right. :0])

That was a 2 node cutting of DLR aswell haha that’s why it’s so tiny but it made for a great tree so far

 

[SpiritFarmVa]

Yes Sir, I do try some in mid summer, but you definitely have to protect them from the sun, and they seem to root much slower in the mid summer heat.
So I quit doing those for the most part.

Do you wrap your summer air layers in aluminum foil? Ours root easily and fast in the summer here, but the soil mix can dry out on you if you do not time removal right.