TorontoJoe
Administrator
It's still a bit early for me so forgive the older mix of photos... I wanted to make available my method for overwintering in-ground fig trees in cold climates.
I allow the tree to get hit by a few frosts and drop its leaves naturally. This is generally going to happen later than potted trees as the soil temps need to dip for this to happen.
The first thing I do is prune back.... With larger trees it can be more challenging and you may need to take the tree down further. Once one pruning I use the strongest cord I have... in my case polypropylene twine... and I tie the tree up as tightly as possible.

Click for original

Following this I drape and tie a layer of burlap around the tree. After the burlap I wind heating cables around being careful to not cross them if at all possible.
Click for original

Note that the heating cables do not get "hot". It's actually difficult to tell they're even on when holding them. They are designed with a built in thermostat switch and will come on during freezing temps and switch off when not needed. This are readily available at most big box home improvement stores. They generally range from 5-7 watts per linear foot.
Following the heating cable I cover the tree with a single layer of fiberglass batt or roll insulation. While heat will be generated, it'll be important to retain it when the weather is very cold. I use electrical tape to wrap any connections with extension cords.
Click for original

Click for original

It's important to remember that wet insulation is essentially no insulation. The entire tree should be covered with at least two layers of tightly woven tarp or even better, building wrap like Typar as these products repel water while still breathing
Click for original

Tie everything tightly and if possible mound a layer of mulch around the base as high as you can. This will add as extra insulation and prevent wind from blowing up underneath.
During periods of very low temperatures it's a good idea to ensure power is getting to the receptacle and no breakers have tripped.
Be careful to wear gloves and cover your skin as the insulation will make your skin itch.
It's not a bad idea to place a wireless thermometer inside to monitor temps. If it gets too low it may be a sign your insulation is wet.
This method has served me well for years. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I'll be update this tread when it comes time to wrap my in-ground trees.
Click for original

I allow the tree to get hit by a few frosts and drop its leaves naturally. This is generally going to happen later than potted trees as the soil temps need to dip for this to happen.
The first thing I do is prune back.... With larger trees it can be more challenging and you may need to take the tree down further. Once one pruning I use the strongest cord I have... in my case polypropylene twine... and I tie the tree up as tightly as possible.

Click for original

Following this I drape and tie a layer of burlap around the tree. After the burlap I wind heating cables around being careful to not cross them if at all possible.
Click for original

Note that the heating cables do not get "hot". It's actually difficult to tell they're even on when holding them. They are designed with a built in thermostat switch and will come on during freezing temps and switch off when not needed. This are readily available at most big box home improvement stores. They generally range from 5-7 watts per linear foot.
Following the heating cable I cover the tree with a single layer of fiberglass batt or roll insulation. While heat will be generated, it'll be important to retain it when the weather is very cold. I use electrical tape to wrap any connections with extension cords.
Click for original

Click for original

It's important to remember that wet insulation is essentially no insulation. The entire tree should be covered with at least two layers of tightly woven tarp or even better, building wrap like Typar as these products repel water while still breathing
Click for original

Tie everything tightly and if possible mound a layer of mulch around the base as high as you can. This will add as extra insulation and prevent wind from blowing up underneath.
During periods of very low temperatures it's a good idea to ensure power is getting to the receptacle and no breakers have tripped.
Be careful to wear gloves and cover your skin as the insulation will make your skin itch.
It's not a bad idea to place a wireless thermometer inside to monitor temps. If it gets too low it may be a sign your insulation is wet.
This method has served me well for years. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I'll be update this tread when it comes time to wrap my in-ground trees.
Click for original
