Amazing new air layering technique!

[figologist]

So admittedly, I’ve become pretty excited about figs. About 4 years in and now with more than 100 varieties, it’s all I can think about. I love propagating with cuttings, grafting, but especially air layering.

Last year, I embarked on an ambitious project. I wanted to document my process for air layering an entire tree. Not just a branch - that’s easy and always works. But what if I could air layer an entire tree?

Here are the pictures to show my process - I started last July here in Oregon (zone 9a). I had a tree that I just wanted to move but didn’t want to dig it out. So I prepared the tree like any normal air layer, but on a larger scale. I removed the bark circumferentially to expose the cambium. I painted the area liberally with Clonex and let it dry. I use 80% HP Pro Mix (almost an entire bag) and 20% coarse perlite. I filled a large garbage bag with the mixture after premoistening the soil. It was a bit tricky to get the bag on - after cinching the top tight to prevent soil escape, I had to have my wife slowly cut open the side of the bag as I surrounded the denuded trunk. We used a LOT of duct tape to close the bag and then use rope like a harness to secure the bag to some of the branches to prevent slippage. I even put some 5g buckets under the bag to support the bottom of the bag.

And then the hard part - waiting. I didn’t dare touch the bag out of fear. When October/November rolled around, I peeked inside and saw nothing. Not a single root. So frustrating. I was going to just abandon the project but my wife just said to wait. So when cold weather hit, I knew it most likely wouldn’t grow much over the winter, so I surrounded the bag with a LOT of blankets and packing to keep it warm.

Luckily, we had an unseasonably mild winter here in Oregon. Last week, I looked again and saw roots. I MEAN A LOT OF ROOTS. Here’s the end result.

I’m so excited. I’m going to cut off the bottom of the root ball and then we can move this sucker to another part of the yard. I’ll use my tractor to help move it. It’s exciting to be the first person to document this feat.

My plan for future attempts is to start this process way earlier than July. Like maybe on April Fools Day.

=)

 

[Fig Gazer]

UH ,THAT LOOKS LIKE TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY ? The consept totaly works dune it to 8' trees . but lol .

 

[figologist]

UH ,THAT LOOKS LIKE TRICK PHOTOGRAPHY ? The consept totaly works dune it to 8' trees . but lol .

Did you read the last line?

 

[ktrain]

I have air layered a good size tree in half...it was DK.
But I have since gotten rid of both.

 

[JMF75]

Wow look at that rootball!!

 

[Fig Gazer]

Did you read the last line?

LOL forgot about april fools day ,fooled me !!

 

[TorontoJoe]

So admittedly, I’ve become pretty excited about figs. About 4 years in and now with more than 100 varieties, it’s all I can think about. I love propagating with cuttings, grafting, but especially air layering.

Last year, I embarked on an ambitious project. I wanted to document my process for air layering an entire tree. Not just a branch - that’s easy and always works. But what if I could air layer an entire tree?

Here are the pictures to show my process - I started last July here in Oregon (zone 9a). I had a tree that I just wanted to move but didn’t want to dig it out. So I prepared the tree like any normal air layer, but on a larger scale. I removed the bark circumferentially to expose the cambium. I painted the area liberally with Clonex and let it dry. I use 80% HP Pro Mix (almost an entire bag) and 20% coarse perlite. I filled a large garbage bag with the mixture after premoistening the soil. It was a bit tricky to get the bag on - after cinching the top tight to prevent soil escape, I had to have my wife slowly cut open the side of the bag as I surrounded the denuded trunk. We used a LOT of duct tape to close the bag and then use rope like a harness to secure the bag to some of the branches to prevent slippage. I even put some 5g buckets under the bag to support the bottom of the bag.

And then the hard part - waiting. I didn’t dare touch the bag out of fear. When October/November rolled around, I peeked inside and saw nothing. Not a single root. So frustrating. I was going to just abandon the project but my wife just said to wait. So when cold weather hit, I knew it most likely wouldn’t grow much over the winter, so I surrounded the bag with a LOT of blankets and packing to keep it warm.

Luckily, we had an unseasonably mild winter here in Oregon. Last week, I looked again and saw roots. I MEAN A LOT OF ROOTS. Here’s the end result.

I’m so excited. I’m going to cut off the bottom of the root ball and then we can move this sucker to another part of the yard. I’ll use my tractor to help move it. It’s exciting to be the first person to document this feat.

My plan for future attempts is to start this process way earlier than July. Like maybe on April Fools Day.

=)
View attachment 5354View attachment 5353View attachment 5355

Fico stronzo in hiding!

 

[figuringIt]

i know this was an april fools joke but it is actually not that crazy. i don't know figs all that well yet but i have seen pretty big trunks air layered. it is often done in the bonsai world (ironically) to create new trees quickly.

 

[TorontoJoe]

i know this was an april fools joke but it is actually not that crazy. i don't know figs all that well yet but i have seen pretty big trunks air layered. it is often done in the bonsai world (ironically) to create new trees quickly.

It would work. I haven't done one quite that large but probably the diameter of my wrist. Cuttings too. It's a slower process but not a problem. With cuttings I actually like them pretty chonky. They take longer but have more stored energy so I tend to have more success.

Check this guy out

I don't think it's necessarily practical but sometimes I try stuff just for the fun of it. Here's the biggest fig pop I've ever rooted.

 

[Fig Gazer]

A general thought abought air layering figs :in a dry climate or weather period figs seek out water with a vengance and will put out roots any where moist soil touches the bark ,no matter how big the tree diam . MAY TAKE A LONG TIME AND HELPS TO BE CONSTANT MOSTURE AND IN DARK . DO NOT WATER THE TREE IN THE MEAN TIME ONLY THE AIR LAYER .GIRDILING AND ROOT HORMONE OFFTIMES SPEEDS THINGS UP . ALTHOUGH EXTREME HEAT CAN KILL GIRDELED TREE .

 

[Jigfig]

A general thought abought air layering figs :in a dry climate or weather period figs seek out water with a vengance and will put out roots any where moist soil touches the bark ,no matter how big the tree diam . MAY TAKE A LONG TIME AND HELPS TO BE CONSTANT MOSTURE AND IN DARK . DO NOT WATER THE TREE IN THE MEAN TIME ONLY THE AIR LAYER .GIRDILING AND ROOT HORMONE OFFTIMES SPEEDS THINGS UP . ALTHOUGH EXTREME HEAT CAN KILL GIRDELED TREE .

I’ve yet to Airlayer anything yet, but I wouldn’t have even thought to not water the tree.

 

[betdempster]

Question about airlayering... Thinking about trying this next year but don't quite understand the advantage of airlayering over rooting a cutting. So far in reading up I see it's got higher success for hard to root ... And that could be a bonus anyway since I'm new and only at 65 to 70 percent so far for cuttings but it seems like a lot of work for one plant so is there any other advantage?
Like if I airlayer a 2 year old tree will it act like a two year old tree and have more mature hormones and therefore fruit like my 2 year old tree the next year so maybe I'm not having to wait two years for good fruit in a variety that takes longer to develop? That's what I was thinking- is that true?

 

[grasshopper]

Question about airlayering... Thinking about trying this next year but don't quite understand the advantage of airlayering over rooting a cutting. So far in reading up I see it's got higher success for hard to root ... And that could be a bonus anyway since I'm new and only at 65 to 70 percent so far for cuttings but it seems like a lot of work for one plant so is there any other advantage?
Like if I airlayer a 2 year old tree will it act like a two year old tree and have more mature hormones and therefore fruit like my 2 year old tree the next year so maybe I'm not having to wait two years for good fruit in a variety that takes longer to develop? That's what I was thinking- is that true?

Airlayering allows the mother tree & the branch to keep growing/fruiting until the harvest of the airlayer. The process is usually fool proof, whereas rooting cuttings can be less certain if you are new to it. Time wise, airlayering is more carefree, less time spent in maintenance vs rooting cuttings. Yep, airlayering can be a set & forget method.

For varieties that are difficult to root, some people would choose airlayering over rooting to propagate them.

I am not sure the fruit timing would be changed. Most of my trees fruit in the first year and the rest in the second year. To get to good fruit quality, some can take 3 years but some would deliver in the first season.

 

[betdempster]

Airlayering allows the mother tree & the branch to keep growing/fruiting until the harvest of the airlayer. The process is usually fool proof, whereas rooting cuttings can be less certain if you are new to it. Time wise, airlayering is more carefree, less time spent in maintenance vs rooting cuttings. Yep, airlayering can be a set & forget method.

For varieties that are difficult to root, some people would choose airlayering over rooting to propagate them.

I am not sure the fruit timing would be changed. Most of my trees fruit in the first year and the rest in the second year. To get to good fruit quality, some can take 3 years but some would deliver in the first season.

Gotcha ok. I have figs on probably 25% of my first year trees (4-5 per tree- not a ton but they are still pretty small) and I only got them July or after. I am so lucky to have such a long growing season. I think I may actually get my first I 258 soon it's swelled by 50% in the last 2 days but still completely green so I don't know... But thanks for the info I will definitely try airlayering next year.

 

[grasshopper]

Gotcha ok. I have figs on probably 25% of my first year trees (4-5 per tree- not a ton but they are still pretty small) and I only got them July or after. I am so lucky to have such a long growing season. I think I may actually get my first I 258 soon it's swelled by 50% in the last 2 days but still completely green so I don't know... But thanks for the info I will definitely try airlayering next year.

In the north with shorter season, I usually keep only 3-5 fruits on the first year trees to have the trees focus on growth instead of fruiting. In the south, I'll keep more fruits depending on the up pot timing. About 80-90% of my trees fruited in the first year, that is with winter rooting cuttings (so they have a headstart). The rest would fruit in the 2nd year.

 

[figuringIt]

It would work. I haven't done one quite that large but probably the diameter of my wrist. Cuttings too. It's a slower process but not a problem. With cuttings I actually like them pretty chonky. They take longer but have more stored energy so I tend to have more success.

Check this guy out

I don't think it's necessarily practical but sometimes I try stuff just for the fun of it. Here's the biggest fig pop I've ever rooted.

i stumbled across this exact video today while learning about air layering and i copied the link to share here, but turns out you beat me to it
i can't believe that thing worked!

 

[TorontoJoe]

i stumbled across this exact video today while learning about air layering and i copied the link to share here, but turns out you beat me to it
i can't believe that thing worked!

In theory bigger, while way slower should work a lot better because they store more energy. My guess is if you did a pole here (you can do that), most people would say they like cuttings around the thickness of a sharpie. Personally, if I have the option I'd take them about the diameter of a #50 Montecristo

 

[figuringIt]

In theory bigger, while way slower should work a lot better because they store more energy.

That makes a lot of sense now i think about it. i have seen many fallen trees reestablish themselves in the woods.

My guess is if you did a pole here (you can do that), most people would say they like cuttings around the thickness of a sharpie. Personally, if I have the option I'd take them about the diameter of a #50 Montecristo

i will keep that in mind, thanks!
the amount of times i have seen guides say it should be about the thickness of a pencil, then proceed to take a cutting the thickness of a #50 Montecristo is crazy! i don't know what pencils they are using but they are not like any i have ever seen.

 

[TorontoJoe]

That makes a lot of sense now i think about it. i have seen many fallen trees reestablish themselves in the woods.

i will keep that in mind, thanks!
the amount of times i have seen guides say it should be about the thickness of a pencil, then proceed to take a cutting the thickness of a #50 Montecristo is crazy! i don't know what pencils they are using but they are not like any i have ever seen.

It’s something that i believe is worth playing with a bit. I imagine many don’t like thicker cuttings not because it’s less successful, but rather because it’s slower

 

[Fig Gazer]

TorontoJoe : YOU never fail to impress me ! BEST FIGS ,BEST MEATS,BEST FOOD AND SAUCES ,BEST FIGS AND NOW CIGARS ? !