Gnatrol

[BucksCountyFigs]

Gnatrol questions:

I understand the dosing and how much to use, but what I don’t know is what size bag to buy.

And I don’t want to buy too big a bag, since it does eventually expire.

For example, if I use it at the 1 teaspoon per gallon dosage, how many teaspoons are in an 1 oz bag of Gnatrol? (Other size options are 2oz and 8oz bags of Gnatrol.)

Also, what dosing do you all use?
For an infestation?
For maintenance (to prevent an outbreak)?

How frequently do you need to use it to completely kill all the eggs, larvae, and adults?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[Figgerlickinggood]

I believe it’s once every two weeks till you see no more gnats flying and crawling around in the container.

 

[ktrain]

I bought a big bag a few years ago, never did get through it.
Back then I rooted A LOT.
I don't do too much anymore, but mine is probably no good now.
Might have to get some more.

 

[Inflorescence]

There are roughly 6 teaspoons in one ounce. 8 oz is roughly 1 cup. And there are 48 teaspoons in a cup.

So you would need to estimate how many pots do you have, how much water/solution do you need per pot, and how often do you wish to treat them.

 

[DianaNE]

Gnatatrol kills only the larva. Need to reapply every 10 days or so. Does not kill adult fly which will continue to lay eggs. So multiple doses are needed. Get rid of flying adults with the yellow sticky traps or carnivorous plants like butterworts and cape sundews!

 

[Figgin' A]

I followed everyone's advice and got a bag of Gnatrol when I saw gnats flying around. Tried different doses and frequencies, but it didn't seem to make any difference. It did not work either as a curative or as a preventative for me. If it works for you, great. Apparently, it works for some as they swear by it. If it doesn't, here is what worked for me.

A few sprays (4-5) of pyrethrin every 3 days wiped out a significant infestation for me. Worked 100%. I saw some gnats later, but using yellow stickies controlled them quite well after that.

The best approach is prevention, IMHO. Don't use unsterilized soil that may contain gnat eggs; cover pots with something like plastic, cheesecloth, etc. Don't overwater. Bottom water. Use yellow stickies to monitor gnat populations. Spray with pyrethrin as soon as you see gnats show up. That's pretty much what I've been doing over the past couple of years, and gnats have not been an issue here.

 

[BucksCountyFigs]

I followed everyone's advice and got a bag of Gnatrol when I saw gnats flying around. Tried different doses and frequencies, but it didn't seem to make any difference. It did not work either as a curative or as a preventative for me. If it works for you, great. Apparently, it works for some as they swear by it. If it doesn't, here is what worked for me.

A few sprays (4-5) of pyrethrin every 3 days wiped out a significant infestation for me. Worked 100%. I saw some gnats later, but using yellow stickies controlled them quite well after that.

The best approach is prevention, IMHO. Don't use unsterilized soil that may contain gnat eggs; cover pots with something like plastic, cheesecloth, etc. Don't overwater. Bottom water. Use yellow stickies to monitor gnat populations. Spray with pyrethrin as soon as you see gnats show up. That's pretty much what I've been doing over the past couple of years, and gnats have not been an issue here.

Pyrethrin was another option, but all I read was Gnatrol, Gnatrol, Gnatrol. Just like the it’s better to do your fig pops in total darkness, lol.

Which product do you use please?

 

[BucksCountyFigs]

There are roughly 6 teaspoons in one ounce. 8 oz is roughly 1 cup. And there are 48 teaspoons in a cup.

So you would need to estimate how many pots do you have, how much water/solution do you need per pot, and how often do you wish to treat them.

That’s expensive!

And thank you for helping my tired brain with my question.

 

[Figgin' A]

Pyrethrin was another option, but all I read was Gnatrol, Gnatrol, Gnatrol. Just like the it’s better to do your fig pops in total darkness, lol.

Which product do you use please?

I use pyrethrum

and this one, which works longer and more effectively:

 

[hambones]

I agree that the pyreth* products take care of them sufficiently, but I've also used the poor man's (aka this is what I have on hand) route of putting a portion of a mosquito dunk in an organza bag and dropping it into my pump sprayer. Wait a day or two then use it to saturate my rooting mix and keep the leftover for follow on watering.

 

[ohiobruce]

I sprinkled a little Sevin on a few of my pots. It drastically reduced the gnat population. But I don't know if that is an approved way to use it.

 

[BucksCountyFigs]

I sprinkled a little Sevin on a few of my pots. It drastically reduced the gnat population. But I don't know if that is an approved way to use it.

Careful not to use any systemic Sevin or any systemic on figs.

 

[ohiobruce]

Careful not to use any systemic Sevin or any systemica on figs.

Sounds like I need to do some research. I have no idea what you mean.

 

[JC Figgy]

So I’ve never had an outbreak. Just an occasional gnat here and there.
FYI, If you have house plants, and have peppers or citrus you bring inside for winter…. This can also result in gnats no matter how clean your propagation soil is.

I bought a big bag of gnatrol when I was rooting a lot of cuttings and went through it because I’d treat the house plants, and citrus trees too.

For figs start with the yellow sticky traps to catch the adults early on so you know they are present. Gnatrol is used in the Promix during saturation. I didn’t measure anything out Just spooned some in. From then on I’d add it into anytime I needed to water them.

Figpops have no gnat issues. They can’t get inside. It’s the uppoting when you’ll see some.

 

[Bofig]

Gnatrol and low dose captain jacks dead bug mix into the watering routine with a dash of dish soap, then spray some captain jacks dead bug on top of soil weekly will stop and keep away even the worst infestations.

 

[DCallahan]

I use a mix of most of what was mentioned above. I get a sticky trap for every second up pot I do now. I mix a handful of mosquito bites into my up potting mix when I prepare it a couple days ahead of uppotting. I use a very light mix of Pyrethrin in a spray bottle if I see any gnats flying. I use Gnatrol in my plant water every 7 days. One thing I have found helpful in combating Gnats in general is to not ever bring outside plants inside and also to inspect for uppoting materials, you want to start with dry sealed containers of product. Alot is made about clearance items in the Fall, I found alot of it is open, busted, soaked, old, which can all lead to being contaminated with pests.

 

[figologist]

Just a heads up - I think gnatrol is way more expensive than mosquito bits, but the active ingredient is the same (Bacillus thuringiensis)

I use Mosquito Bits with every watering. You know the gnats will come, so don't chase them once they appear.

Bobby

 

[grasshopper]

I just used soapy water spray to kill the adults and mosquito dunks (BTI active ingredient) water to kill the larvae in multiple succession. They don't all hatch at the same time. Gnat's life cycle is about 3-4 weeks. I think I used the BTI water weekly. It has been a while since I had any outbreak so I can't remember the specifics.

The BTI water from mosquito bits can get smelly(worst than sulfur) so be sure to set just the right amount and use it up each time or remove the bits each time.

 

[BucksCountyFigs]

Sounds like I need to do some research. I have no idea what you mean.

Usually for edible plants (like figs), when you are choosing a pesticide, you want one that does not get incorporated into the fruit you are going to eat, like a systemic pesticide that stays in the plant for a long time. Systemics are great for roses, for example, as long as you don’t eat the rose petals (eg cake decorating, salads).

That’s why Gnatrol and mosquito bits and mosquito dunks are so popular. The active ingredient is BT, which is short for Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis, which is a NATURALLY occurring soil bacteria, which is great.

Another reason it is a good choice is that it has very high specificity at what it targets. It is toxic specifically only to certain insects like fungus gnat larvae, but not harmful to honey bees.

And it targets a very specific area of their gut, which is different in humans.

If you use mosquito bits, I recommend putting them in a mesh bag - I use the ones that I got to protect the fruit. Then just fill it with the mosquito bits and use it like a tea bag in your watering can. Just let it steep in there long enough to be effective before watering.

 

[JC Figgy]

I just used soapy water spray to kill the adults and mosquito dunks (BTI active ingredient) water to kill the larvae in multiple succession. They don't all hatch at the same time. Gnat's life cycle is about 3-4 weeks. I think I used the BTI water weekly. It has been a while since I had any outbreak so I can't remember the specifics.

The BTI water from mosquito bits can get smelly(worst than sulfur) so be sure to set just the right amount and use it up each time or remove the bits each time.

I did mosquito bits and I saved leftover cuz I hated mixing more each time...but the stench is aweful. So I stick with gnatrol and its easy to mix powdered form for convenience and not so stinky factor.