Electri-fig-ation - Part 2 - Subterranean

TorontoJoe

Administrator
Sometimes, occasionally.... I try to post something that's of actual, practical use :) I hope this helps others growing figs in cold climates and like the original, Electri-fig-ation method, I hope others find their own ways to adapt and improve on the idea.

As these well protected trees get bigger and bigger they start to wake up later and later every year. We've had some discussion about trying to get the trees to wake earlier in the spring by applying warm water to the root zone....I don't know how well that works. I've been hinting around trying to figure out something to get the root zone warmer... earlier. This is what I came up with.

For the heat source I decided on this Warmly Yours deicing cable. 60ft at 5 watts per foot (From the US, everything in feet for your enjoyment :) )

There are definitely cables that are designed to be buried, and for this purpose, but they were all configured in a loop. You'll see momentarily why this would be a problem.

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I could probably have just buried the cable but I wanted to give it some protection. I ended up feeding into some irrigation mainline tubing.

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Next I needed a hole. So I got digging.

Getting the cable to fit the hole correctly was a bit finicky. I had to pin it all into place as I went along.


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I also needed to leave enough space between to let the roots through.

Everything in place I backfilled the whole thing with some fert and a shinynew tree.

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I decided to leave both ends of the cable/tubing above ground. I figured by doing this, if the cable ever fails, I can use it as a fish to pull another one in through the tubing. I really don't want to have to ever dig this up. It's not very retrofit friendly.

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I think I'm going to build some extra protection around the above ground bits so they don't get caught with a weed trimmer.

I realize the real test will come next spring to see if this really works. In the short term I'm going to try and get my hands on a probe thermometer. I'll plug it in for a few days and see if it's any warmer than around other trees. I think the plan will be to plug it in late March or early April. Basically when I'm ready to remove winter protection up top and be prepared to protect a growing tree. I hope 300 watts will do the trick.

Finally, I'm sure you're all wondering what tree I did all this for..... :)

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That's a good idea. You could probably package that up, put everything in it like thermometer and directions, and sell them. Now I need to invent one that cools the roots in the Texas heat. 😆
 
Your idea? Or pumping cool ground water thru copper tubing around the roots to chill them down in summer months?

I meant the heating cables underground.

I have no idea about cooling. I imaging ground cover and cool water would help.

I wonder if you made a makeshift vented greenhouse. If your tree would grow all year long?

If the roots are warm enough I imagine it would. Might need a bit of extra light though. But I know people who grow indoors with no more than a window and the trees never go to sleep.
 
Sometimes, occasionally.... I try to post something that's of actual, practical use :) I hope this helps others growing figs in cold climates and like the original, Electri-fig-ation method, I hope others find their own ways to adapt and improve on the idea.

As these well protected trees get bigger and bigger they start to wake up later and later every year. We've had some discussion about trying to get the trees to wake earlier in the spring by applying warm water to the root zone....I don't know how well that works. I've been hinting around trying to figure out something to get the root zone warmer... earlier. This is what I came up with.

For the heat source I decided on this Warmly Yours deicing cable. 60ft at 5 watts per foot (From the US, everything in feet for your enjoyment :) )

There are definitely cables that are designed to be buried, and for this purpose, but they were all configured in a loop. You'll see momentarily why this would be a problem.

View attachment 7494View attachment 7495

I could probably have just buried the cable but I wanted to give it some protection. I ended up feeding into some irrigation mainline tubing.

View attachment 7496

Next I needed a hole. So I got digging.

Getting the cable to fit the hole correctly was a bit finicky. I had to pin it all into place as I went along.


View attachment 7501
View attachment 7499

View attachment 7500

I also needed to leave enough space between to let the roots through.

Everything in place I backfilled the whole thing with some fert and a shinynew tree.

View attachment 7502View attachment 7503

I decided to leave both ends of the cable/tubing above ground. I figured by doing this, if the cable ever fails, I can use it as a fish to pull another one in through the tubing. I really don't want to have to ever dig this up. It's not very retrofit friendly.

View attachment 7504View attachment 7505

I think I'm going to build some extra protection around the above ground bits so they don't get caught with a weed trimmer.

I realize the real test will come next spring to see if this really works. In the short term I'm going to try and get my hands on a probe thermometer. I'll plug it in for a few days and see if it's any warmer than around other trees. I think the plan will be to plug it in late March or early April. Basically when I'm ready to remove winter protection up top and be prepared to protect a growing tree. I hope 300 watts will do the trick.

Finally, I'm sure you're all wondering what tree I did all this for..... :)

View attachment 7506
 
@TorontoJoe y'all need a year-round Greenhouse more than anyone here. And rolling bench mechanism to move them in, and out as needed like our @SubmarinePete ... you could load a greenhouse, and empty a G house fast with some version of rolling bench working for you. You could keep going many years longer, and keep your body functional. Even a 500 sq ft plan shouldn't cost you that much for what you would gain.
 
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This is something I’ve been waiting for. I think it will work. Ive poured hot water around my tree but I might install a hot water line to my hose before the end of the season. I’m gonna see if I can just feed hot water consistently to warm up the ground. My inground has been exposed since beginning of May and it’s been growing slowly even with days with frost. Maybe the hot water is working I don’t know 🤷 but I hope your method works Joe just makes things much easier. I love the heat coils. Thanks for experimenting. I gotta say that’s a clever idea 💡
 
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This is something I’ve been waiting for. I think it will work. Ive poured hot water around my tree but I might install a hot water line to my hose before the end of the season. I’m gonna see if I can just feed hot water consistently to warm up the ground. My inground has been exposed since beginning of May and it’s been growing slowly even with days with frost. Maybe the hot water is working I don’t know 🤷 but I hope your method works Joe just makes things much easier. I love the heat coils. Thanks for experimenting. I gotta say that’s a clever idea 💡
Wouldn't hot water kill the good fungal and bacteria the roots feed on?
 
Your idea? Or pumping cool ground water thru copper tubing around the roots to chill them down in summer months?
I actually thought about that water and copper tubing idea but it would be more trouble than it's worth. The heat isn't really that bad. Although sometimes in the hottest part of the day when the fig trees look wilted from the heat, I will water them to cool the roots off and spray the outside of the container to cool if off. I think that the heat does stress small rooted cuttings. I have started putting the little ones in the shade in the afternoon. When I get a rooted cutting shipped to me, I put it in the window inside the house at 68F degrees for three days before putting it outside.
 
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